Hard Up Direct 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 170 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | John Kelbel on Jul 25, 2012 |
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BETA PHOTO: Hard Up Direct 5.8
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Description The Classic route at Maryland Heights. It is recommended to link pitch 2 and 3 together.
1. Climb the left facing corner and face up to the white streak at the bottom of the sign. Step left to a set of bolts with chains. This pitch sometimes contains a little vegetation.
2. Step left and move up, follow a steep ramp left to a slanted overhanging block. Climb the crack on the main wall and step left onto the top of the block located at the bottom left corner of the sign. Notice the rappel bolts and chains just below your feet. However it's best to build an gear anchor here if you don't want to continue on and combine the next pitch.
3. Follow the right leaning crack a couple of feet to a left rising crack. Take the crack left to the top of a small ledge. Keep an eye out for loose rock on the next easy part. Move up the wide crack and onto the arete. Move left onto the ramp and up to the large bolder covered ledge with a tree.
4. Move up behind the tree into a squeeze chimney, follow the chimney to a tree and 6 feet in pass the tree you will find the main rappel chains on the left wall. This is also the last pitch of “D route”
Two rappels with a single 60 meter rope. On the first rappel watch where you lay the rope when exiting the chimney there is a spot with a V notch that some times will snags a rope.
Location At the top of the trail scramble up a narrow gully directly below the center of the sign this is also left of a large left facing corner. Continue scrambling left up a ramp for 30' to a wide left facing corner.
Protection Standard trad rack. Bolted belay on pitch 1 and 4. Combine pitch 2 and 3 and belay from the tree.
On the 2nd / 3rd pitch linkup
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first moves of the 2nd pitch
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going through the chimney on the fourth pitch
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| Comments on Hard Up Direct |
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By Chris Blanchard
From: Hanford, CA
Apr 29, 2013
| Don't rap off pitch 3 tree. Its been a long time since I've climbed this but our rope got stuck (twice) and we were stupid ... and stuck. We did this climb in four pitches so I'm not sure if its changed. Our pitch 3 anchor was under the chimney formation on a huge ledge with a tree and it was also the finish to the 5.6 that was on the far left facing the cliff from below.
Its funny that this climb takes place on top of an old Bath Tissue painted billboard. |
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