The Classic route at Maryland Heights. It is recommended to link pitch 2 and 3 together.
1. Climb the left facing corner and face up to the white streak at the bottom of the sign. Step left to a set of bolts with chains. This pitch sometimes contains a little vegetation and is roughly 50 feet.
2. Diagonal up and left along the steep ramp. Step out left around an overhanging block passing the main rappel chains. Clipping or placing gear near the rappel chains may create rope drag if linking pitch 2&3 together. Step up on top of the overhanging block to the base of a vertical crack.
3. Climb the vertical crack for about 10 feet then follow the crack left up a steep right facing ramp to a wide platform. Keep an eye out for loose rock on the next easy part. Move up the wide crack on an outside corner for about 6 feet. Move around left onto the wide low angle face and up to the large bolder covered ledge with a tree.
4. Move up behind the tree into a squeeze chimney for about 8 feet, follow the crack system for another 20 feet passing 2 trees and walk into the wide chimney to find the main rappel chains on the left wall in the back of the chimney.
See Rappel information on the Sign Wall page. 60 meter rope required.
At the top of the trail scramble up a narrow gully directly below the center of the sign this is also left of a large left facing corner. Continue scrambling left up a ramp for 30' to a wide left facing corner.
Standard trad rack. Bolted belay on pitch 1 and 4. Combine pitch 2 and 3 and belay from the tree.
BETA PHOTO: Hard Up Direct 5.8
On the 2nd / 3rd pitch linkup
going through the chimney on the fourth pitch
|By Chris Blanchard|
Apr 29, 2013
Don't rap off pitch 3 tree. Its been a long time since I've climbed this but our rope got stuck (twice) and we were stupid ... and stuck. We did this climb in four pitches so I'm not sure if its changed. Our pitch 3 anchor was under the chimney formation on a huge ledge with a tree and it was also the finish to the 5.6 that was on the far left facing the cliff from below.
Its funny that this climb takes place on top of an old Bath Tissue painted billboard.
Jul 18, 2014
Getting off the ground was the crux for me, with about 10 more feet of super awkward climbing over bulges before I could get established on the climb. Definitely link pitches 2+3. Awkward climbing will lead you to the only vertical section (10 feet?) of rock on the route which can be figured out beforehand, at a generous rest.
Attempted to bypass the chimney on the next pitch by using the crack to the right of it, but couldn't figure out the beta, next time.
Fun climb overall.