|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Rick Horn, 1964|
|Submitted By:||Handsome B. Wonderful on May 6, 2011|
|Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Hard to Believe||Add Comment|
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From: Loveland, Colorado
Sep 7, 2011
Handsome: Im glad you climbed Hard to Believe. As far as I know, you may have done the first ascent. In June of 1996, I attempted the climb assuming it was 10b as I had been told. In those days, I felt I could have gotten up any one-pitch 11a even if it involved some hanging. However, I got nowhere. Afterwards, I asked some strong climbers to try it. They said they would, but never got around to it. In Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, I gave it a tentative 10d rating (it sure wasnt 10b) and thought that before the book went to print, Id get a good estimate from someone who climbed it. Didnt happen. I was sorry that I let this slip by and should have stated in the book that I didnt know of anyone who free climbed the route. In doing the research for the book, I spoke to Dave Rearick (first ascent of the Longs Peak Diamond) who was sitting on top of the rock in 1964 as the supposed FA party arrived at top. The name is due to him. Has anyone else out there climbed the route? If so, lets hear from you.
Edit: 17 Sept. 2012: Oops. The climb is on the NW side of Blair III.
By Richard Smith
Jul 20, 2015
|Any approach beta that doesn't involve making the leap of faith across that chimney would be much appreciated|
By Ray Lovestead
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
This route is spectacular. Incredibly beautiful and very difficult, perfect.
You could do a fantastic tour by climbing Penetration and traversing right to the base of this route. Or you can come up from a chimney below from the south. Looks like someone put a large log across the 'leap of faith,' and it is completely safe to go that way.
I think this is currently my favorite route at the Voo.
(Gear beta): lots of 3, 4, 5s. Doesn't need any 6s at all. Make sure you save a 3, 4, and/or 5 to build an anchor and bring up your second. Rappel off the anchors at the north end to the Penetration anchors, then you can walk to the right back to your stuff.