|Lisa Falls Buttress
This climbs the upper face to the right of the waterfalls. Start from the belay station at the ledge above Flee Flicker or Fleeting Glimpse. This then works around the roof that the anchors are on, and then pops over the small roof, at the base of the brown face with a bolt. Climb to the ledge and clip, make your touchy move and continue to the top.
2 bolts at the top of the climb (Shared with Lisa Fall Tight Pitch 2). 1 draw for the only bolt, and some medium gear. I believe a # .75 camalot worked wonderful just below the face to the bolt. 2 1-rope rappels
From: Olympic Valley, CA
May 20, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Good route to gain some height. Don't let the runout keep you away from doing this route, it isn't that bad. Personally I don't think the crux is 5.9, it feels much easier and is only one or two smear moves right at the bolt.
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 16, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Not 5.9+ and not really R rated either. The runouts are much easier, and the bolt protects the hard moves well. Cool pitch.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Aug 3, 2005
Did this again today, and would agree that 5.9+ seems a little steep.
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 15, 2011
My wife and I did this pitch today. Warning: bees have made a home in the crack just above the anchors for the start of this pitch. It would have otherwise made a good placement, but it's not really needed. Bees probably do this often, so it may be worth adding as beta, not a condition report.
Yeah, this is not 5.9+. The entire climb would be 5.5 if it weren't for the crux moves up the smeary section. I'd say maybe 5.7+. I slid off it twice, but the ledge saved me. Even with no ledge, the bolt would have stopped the fall.
Fun moves on this part, but the rest of the climb isn't very interesting.
|By Tim Harper|
Sep 26, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c R
The climbing is relatively easy, but yes, it's difficult to find gear placement. The one bolt on the way up is solid.
Because of the difficulty of placing anchors, a factor-2 fall is quite possible up to that point, and it's a good 50-60% up. Fortunately, the climbing is easy... but be careful out there kids.