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John Maguire after being told that this climb was ...
Find an angling, small hands to wide fingers crack that moves up and left. The crux is about 10 feet up and requires powerful jamming and careful footwork. Protects great though it can be strenuous to place.
Descent: Class 4+ or 5.0 walk off straight back and climbers left, along the face of the rear wall. Could also be linked with a 5.8 sport climb (rightmost of the two) along this face (although its a scary move to make the first bolt).
Climbers left and around the corner from Jack Knife.
Can be lead with 1, #2 low and 1, #1 above that. Gear is needed to build an anchor at the top.
Feb 7, 2013
Good thin hands and even ring locking. V2.
By Ky Harkey
Mar 31, 2013
Probably an easier boulder problem than lead, but it definitely protects. This was pitch one, followed by a scramble to the base of Cave Crack; more fun than the typical Jack Knife approach. I belayed off a huge boulder.
By Ryan Levihn-Coon
From: Austin, Texas
Mar 17, 2014
2 #1s and a .75 will do well. 1 #2 will do for the anchor, 2 is better. Think I used a #2 and #3. Can be down-climbed off the back and left side.