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Hard Cranking Dude 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: M. Nad, J. Nad
Page Views: 203
Submitted By: jeffozozo on May 7, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Crawdad Canyon is private property. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Cool climb in a wide crack and over a bulge. Lots of good holds and some cool stemming moves.


Location 

labeled at the bottom. Follows the obvious wide crack.


Protection 

5 bolts to rap anchor



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By jeffozozo
From: huntsville, utah
May 7, 2012

This climb is labeled at the bottom as 5.11 b/c. In the Goss guidebook, there is a note that says "if climbed as a crack climb it is 5.9 or so."

I'd call it 5.10a. I can't figure out how/why you'd want to try to climb this without using the holds in the crack.

The anchors are quite a ways to the right of the bottom of the climb and are not visible from the bottom, making it difficult to top rope. But I found that you can leave the last draw clipped or use it as a 'tram' and it works ok. It is such a cool climb that we wanted to rig it so those in our party who couldn't lead, would be able to climb it as well.

By Gordon Larsen
From: St. George, Utah
Mar 2, 2013

One of my favorite lines in the canyon. It can share the same anchor with Monkey Business. Stays in the shade essentially all year long. Rap hangers at the top are still solid but do spin a little. I consider it 10+ in difficulty.