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at a distance
A spectacular route, itself worth a trip to the Windfall Wall. Thoughtful protection and movement characterize this route, like many of the gorge 5.11s. Climb a fingers to hand crack to a stance under the roof. Skirt left into a beautiful stem box, using your lower gorge trickery to make the small features useful for protection and upward progress. When the columns end,head up and right pulling wild steep moves up the cracked headwall to reach a two bolt anchor.
Left of "Wave of Mutilation", the farthest left bolted line. "Hard Attack" starts in a grey corner beneath a roof formed by a hanging column.
Cams to 2.5", extra fingers and micro, 2-3 each of the smallest not unreasonable. Wires. RP's or Ballnuts useful.
Anchor has two Metolius rap hangers
By Jon Rhoderick
2 days ago
Do yourself a favor and do this route and The Sheepgate. They are the same quality as Cry of the Poor, On the Road, or the Pearl that are super classics across the water yet these guys mostly collect dust.
Ball nuts, offset cams, or offset nuts are nice, but this can be safely climbed with a conventional trad rack
FA Chuck Buzzard 3/84