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This route climbs the obvious steep flared chimney with the handcrack in the back. Start by scrambling up to the base of the crack below the chimney, then lieback it to a rest at the base of the chimney. Now jam the perfect splitter handcrack for 40 feet, then scramble up to the tree for your anchor.
This route doesn't see a lot of traffic, but is very good.
Hike the Inner Wall trail up towards Toxic Shock. Just after the cave look for a faint trail heading up the gully to the right towards the right end of the Trapped Balls cliff. Scramble along the edge until you encounter the first ledge with the moss scraped off. Traverse accross to the left here then up to reach the base.
1 set of cams to a #3 camalot
an extra #2 is nice
60 meter rope
By Douglas T
Mar 8, 2015
The tat on the tree has been removed and a modern anchor installed.
Jun 21, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
IMO, this is not a hand crack unless you have BIG hands. #4 and #3 C4 Camalots most of the way getting narrower as you go.
Thanks, Doug, for the anchors!