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Happy New Year S 
Paparazzi Pete T,S 

Happy New Year 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ken and Karen McMahon '99
Page Views: 916
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on May 14, 2010

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Spiky goodness.

Description 

Another great multipitch moderate. A bit cleaner than Paparazzi Pete, and I love climbing on the jagged limestone.

P1 & 2 (5.9) 55m: Start on the first two pitches of Paparazzi Pete. Use the anchor directly at the top of the second pitch unless you have gear, in which case you can move of right about 20 feet and reduce a lot of drag on P3.

P3 (5.9) 25m: Traverse right around a slight bulge and then head straight up on thousands of little black spikes. Kind of a weird step right to the anchors.

P4 (5.10a) 25m: Reverse the weird step back left and continue up a slight corner. The anchor sits under the overhanging corner crack.

P5 (5.10b) 20m: Straight up a slightly overhanging corner crack. Fantastic.

Location 

Straight up the middle a la Paparazzi Pete to the big ledge. Then move right to the black face and up to the crack splitting the top.

Protection 

A dozen draws should be more than enough. All anchors are bolted.


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By Jim Althans
Mar 23, 2016

Wanted to share a video we just finished making from this climb. Incredible routes, lots of fun :)

www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4tkFU78T7U

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