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Happy Hunting Grounds 

5.11a R

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
FA: unknown
Submitted By: Craig McCudden on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Photo By: C.McCudden on Jumars

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Description 

So heres how my interest came to be for this route:

Magic Ed had a thing for this climb saying how he always wanted to lead it but was intimidated. We did it on top rope, being that I'm fairly tall I had no problems with the route, in fact I couldn't see why he had a problem with it.

So just to work My buddy up I let him know that I was gonna do it...Wooo Hooo this got him goin' but still not on the route. So anyway it was time to pony up.

During my lead I actually slipped before getting my gear in whew.......But held on got the gear and the lead. This climb lead to a flurry of 5.10 leads that afternoon

One of my finest days at the lake

Oh & Magic Ed.......Climbed the route, like a kid on a quarter Horse ride at the market 2 weeks later

See Photos


Protection 

Pro on the lower third on the route does not exsist. The first pro is at the Crux, where a small nut fits in very nicely to give you some peace of mind during the layback.

After that the route gobbles up gear.



Photos of Happy Hunting Grounds Slideshow Add Photo
Ed snapped this one of me approching the crux

Ed snapped this one of me approching the crux

Another shot of someone leading HHG.  Here you can see the climber managed to find a placement to protect the lower moves.  I removed this piece and found it to be not quite super bomber but OK smaller wire.

Another shot of someone leading HHG. Here you can...

Pulling through the cool little roof at 2/3 height and above the crux.  There is a final cool little roof at the top.  Check out all the pro placed to protect the crux.

Pulling through the cool little roof at 2/3 height...

For MP's lack of diversity I took this photo. Men are pigs.

For MP's lack of diversity I took this photo. Men ...


Comments on Happy Hunting Grounds Add Comment
Show which comments
By Craig McCudden
May 20, 2003

There is NO A0 on the route...

I did that by mistake, this was my first post

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 22, 2003

I agree that there is no AO on the route (unless you lead it and pull on gear through the crux--efficient but lacking in style points). The crux move, though is definately 5.11a. Maybe 5.10d. Certainly not 5.10a like the header states. I led this climb last summer, and the crux could not be better protected ( a bomber stopper and a Lowe Ball). The start however is serious, and akin to soloing 5.9. All in all, this climb is a great bold lead, and great mental training for leading some of the other bold harder leads in the park (Callipigeanous Direct, Son of Great Chimney, Orgasm Direct, etc).

By wayniak
Aug 19, 2005

A great route. Not to be missed if you are in the area.

By Trad Nanny
May 15, 2010
rating: 5.11a R

I buried a purple BD C3 right at the crux, then nothing to put in until you hit the rest ledges. Classic route!

By Corey Morris
From: Ali Al Salem, Kuwait
Sep 6, 2010

By far the worst route description I have ever seen on MP...