The rightmost route on the Distillery Wall, this route and the route After Hours (.12a) are set apart from the rest of the Distillery Wall by the large slab with the route Five Nine (5.9+) on it.
Climb the first 3 bolts that are shared between the two routes for a crux just below the third bolt. Watch the second clip as well, as a missed clip on small hands will toss you onto the slab below.
After the third bolt, this climb splits from After Hours and heads straight up, while After Hours continues along the overhang just above the slab.
Climbing after the fourth bolt is fun and relatively easy, but the temptation to cheat around the corner is often too great.
7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
|By J. Albers|
Jul 5, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not sure why this route is rated 'R'. Definitely a safely bolted and fun route.
|By John Robinson|
From: Elk Grove, ca
Sep 26, 2010
I agree with J Albers. I don't know why this route is given an "R" rating
From: Oakland CA
Sep 26, 2010
Many routes put in mountainproject by the Quiter boys are listed as R that are perfectly safe. I don't think they understood the R designation when they were entering all these routes in 2003-04 or so. Half Hit at Grouse Slab and Rehab at the Leap come to mind as perfectly safe/protectable routes listed as R.
From: Stateline, NV
Apr 27, 2013
Not 'R' rated, I admit if you do the direct start (instead of going up the block) its a little spicy, but if your an 11b climber your not going to fall on that part. I think the original route started up the block which isn't remotely 'r'