2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Happy Hour Crag is a south-facing wall that keeps the sun for a long time. There are a number of pleasant moderates on this quite high friction rock. Unfortunately, not all of the routes are able to take advantage of that rock quality. Some of the routes are nothing to write home about. That doesn't mean you should write off the rock; there's a number of cool routes, mostly in the middle of the rock. The crag is 70-120 feet high. It can get quite popular after work or on weekends.
Pass Cob Rock on the left at 6.6 miles. 100 yards further is a pull-off on the right for Blob Rock. 100 yards further there is a pull-off on the left side of the road (at 6.8 miles). Park, cross the road, and find a steep trail that heads directly up towards the rock. Take the left branch at trail forks; the right branch heads up to Security Risk.
Hiking time is about 10-15 minutes to the crag.
An easy path leads up around the left (west) side to the top of the rock; this is also used to descend from routes that don't have bolt anchors.
Cell Phone Coverager
FWIW, Verizon's cell phone covers does reach this crag. The service is a bit iffy.
Begin beneath the obvious left leaning V- slot roof near the middle of the crag. An awkward mantle brings you into the short but technical crux - the narrow V-slot with a thin fingers crack. Good smears and bomber fingerlocks through the crux. Solid 10a. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Jon - you're not kidding. I would avoid this rock at all costs during the weekends. We were short on time and went a couple of Sundays ago in hopes of doing a few quick routes. Major mistake. My girlfriend was climbing Last Laugh and almost had a rope thrown down on her by someone wanting to top-rope a 5.8 close by. We left after one route. This crag has become a mecca for beginner climbers looking for quality top ropes. Unfortunately, not all of them are too climbing savvy yet and are a bit lacking when it comes to basic etiquette (i.e. don't throw ropes on people).When I was at the anchor, there was so much yelling and confusion amongst the beginners that I thought someone was going to fall off. For a better and less crowded area, deal with the heat and try security risk.
Aside from the crowds, happy hour is a great place for some after work and quick routes. I've had great luck in early season.
I really love Happy Hour as a great place for after work climbing. I'm getting a little concerned, however, about the profusion of trails beneath the crag. Perhaps the Access Fund could continue its fine work in the area by establishing an "official" trail to the crag. In the meantime, I might suggest that folks stick to the slab approach across from the parking area that climbs directly up to the crag. This will minimize erosion on the hillside.
In early June, Ron Olsen and I replaced all the rappel/lower hardware in the fixed anchors on this crag with 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links. In the process, we removed all smash (lap) links; the ones on the anchor of Grins were especially bad most likely due to the not-recommended practice of belaying and lowering directly through the anchors.
This effort was part of the American Safe Climbing Associations (ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org) Clean Anchors Campaign. They could use your support!
Really enjoyed this rock. The guides claim there are some bolts at the top left usually listed as route 3, but I couldn't find any. Also don't get upset with us newbies who are TRing. Those of you aid climb and get there after we are aleady in the process of setting up, just ask if you can climb a route first. People like me realize that you are going to tie up a route a lot less than TRing.
Anybody know when the 2 big peace symbols were painted on Happy Hour? We drove past there today and I think they are in the Cheers vicinity and are probably 6-8 feet in diameter. Very obvious from the road. Makes you want to wring a few necks.
If these peace-niks on rappel had cajones, they would paint the modified Mercedes symbol on the Pentagon. Instead, the individual(s) have created a trite gesture of vandalism that is utterly devoid of meaning. Good job, kids.
The peace signs were there on Saturday, May 20th. They look really bad! Does anyone know how to get the paint off without damaging the rock? Happy Hour is one of my favorite rocks and I hate to see it damaged like that. If someone has experience getting paint off of rock, please let me know. Is paint thinner the best way to get this off?
Thanks to whomever took the trouble to clean the spray paint vandalism at Happy Hour on Sunday - I don't know if they succeeded in getting it off with the bucket of soapy water - but perhaps using a solution of ethanol might work.
Does anybody know what the bolted route is just to the right of Dementia and to the left of Cheers? It follows the left-facing arete/flake making the giant overhanging V-slot finger crack of Dementia. I've topped it a couple times now and it feels much harder than Cheers to me.
My friend and I went climbing at this wall yesterday. We had fun, it was nice that we could set up a top rope on these hard climbs. There were some holds that had chalk marks on them, I think they were marking the holds that were loose. I put more marks on a lot of other holds that I think are going easy to break soon. Watch out, there are lots of holds that are loose at this wall, hopefully other people will mark with chalk all of the loose holds so people don't get hurt.