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Happy-Go Highball 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+ PG13

   
Type:  Boulder, 25'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4- Font: 6B [details]
FA: Paul Dieterle
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,055
Submitted By: Remo on Oct 15, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Gettin on it, Remo in the summer heat.

Description 

Climb up south facing corner of tall boulder.


Location 

Up in top of talus field past Group Leader. This is the largest boulder in the talus so it is easy to find once your up at the top.


Protection 

Lots of pads and spotters.



Photos of Happy-Go Highball Slideshow Add Photo
Vince sending in the drizzle.
Vince sending in the drizzle.
Scheming...
Scheming...
Vince pulling down in the drizzling rain.
Vince pulling down in the drizzling rain.
Climb goes up arete.
Climb goes up arete.
View from below the boulder.
View from below the boulder.
After the send. So syked!
After the send. So syked!
Remo past the crux, hitting the good crimp.  Great problem.
Remo past the crux, hitting the good crimp. Great...
The admin happy to go highball.
The admin happy to go highball.
Vince.
Vince.
Vince going for it!
Vince going for it!
Comments on Happy-Go Highball Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 24, 2013
By Tony Brengosz
Oct 15, 2009

Is this the face with the big pit underneath it just past group leader, or is this further up?

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Oct 15, 2009

Tony, this sits further up at the top of the talus field.

By Tradoholic
Oct 22, 2009

Remo, get me on this thing! Looks rad!

By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 10, 2009
rating: V4 6B PG13

I'm with Rhoads. I've gotta see it at least. Looks like a good step towards stuff in Bishop

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 18, 2009

F*** Bishop... This is Devils Lake sir!

By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 18, 2009
rating: V4 6B PG13

Gee, I guess I didn't realize commenting on a sweet boulder problem proj at the lake (comparing it to one of the best places to boulder in the world) would be so unacceptable.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 18, 2009

Totally f***ing with you bro! I wouldn't take most of what I say very seriously.

By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 19, 2009
rating: V4 6B PG13

oh, in that case...right on!

By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 28, 2009
rating: V4 6B PG13

A "scary project" no more. FA Paul Dieterle (assuming it wasn't done before). Happy-Go Highball is the best name for it. I'd say it's more like 25 feet than 20, but that's splitting hairs really.

The route starts on two decently sized jugs 5-10 feet right of the arete. One is at eye height, the other about 18 inches up and left of the other. From there, you use a series of sharp incuts and a key 2 finger undercling crimp to get to a rest jug about 2 feet left of the arete. Then, using a seam on the left, sharp crimps on the right, and a bunch of smallish feet, you gain a sloping rail near the top. A sharp right hand pinch and a high step get you the top of the boulder, although there is no "thank god hold." Top it out and celebrate. About 18 moves in all.

My dad and I spent about an hour building up the landing and even though we had 2 pads (one more than usual), more would have been nice (we used ropes and such to protect random spikes). I guess I would call it "X" because of the insecurity at the top and the fact that if your right foot pops, you'll fall down a 500 foot talus field.

As for the grade, v5 is a tentative guess. I would say the bottom is v4+ and the top is v3, but the fact that no move is a gimme makes it pretty pumpy and sustained. I would love to have other people get on it and reach a consensus! No matter what the grade, I would say that the movement, combined with the feature, make it a 4 star classic and a must do for anyone who wants to get their highball on!

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 28, 2009

I see you finally found it. nice job.

By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 29, 2009
rating: V4 6B PG13

Thanks Chris and Sweaty! Yeah thanks again for the directions. We figured 3 hours of walking up and down the talus fields in search of it was enough.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 30, 2009

Nice job Paul. I knew you would send, congrats!

By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 30, 2009
rating: V4 6B PG13

Hey thanks Remo. You HAVE to get on this thing. SO amazing!

By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 15, 2009
rating: V4 6B PG13

after being back in the gym for a week now, I've concluded it's more v4 than v5

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Dec 15, 2009
rating: V4 6B PG13

Assuming you mean Boulders, is it more like a Remo V4 or a Rick V4? :)

By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 15, 2009
rating: V4 6B PG13

Rick V4+. I don't know for sure though. I've been doing a lot of the anti-style, but V4+ sounds like a good compromise!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 10, 2010

This thing is really good Paul!!! A classic DL highball.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 10, 2010
rating: V4 6B PG13

Paul, nice work man, proud FA. We had a send train, Eggman, Remo, Vince, Matt all in rapid succession. Tall and super fun.

By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Jun 13, 2010
rating: V4 6B PG13

AWESOME GUYS! Interesting to see the discrepancies in danger. Probably due to lack of pads and experience. SO PSYCHED to see other people get on this!!!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 13, 2010
rating: V4 6B PG13

Paul we had 4 guys and ~8 pads, so it's a little different. We did have multiple big falls from the crux near the top. Perhaps also different beta since I never felt like I would fall anywhere except straight down to the pads. RAD problem and beautiful, aesthetic, 4 star DL feature.

By Tradoholic
Mar 12, 2012

This is most easily found by going to the Pearly Gates buttress via the DL guidebook, then going down hill and south for about 150ft.

By Rock Warrior Films
Nov 24, 2013
rating: V3-4 6A+ PG13

This thing is good! We had 3 big pads and a small and it padded up well.