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The crux of Happy Feet, which is also the first th...
Happy Feet is a variation to the stellar Hostile Takeover
that avoids the difficult roof-crux. This line still packs plenty of punch, sharing the first three bolts of extreme face climbing on HT. Begin as for HT, but after reaching the ramp'ish rock above the third bolt, head right and over the bulge with relative ease to a long headwall of excellent 5.10 face climbing.
Another variation to Happy Feet avoids the crux bolts 1-3 by scrambling up to the upper Perp Area
and traversing into Happy Feet at ~10c.
Start as for Hostile Takeover but veer right after the 3rd bolt.
By Dave Wachter
Jul 15, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Excellent sustained technical face climbing! Crux seemed to me to be the lower section (shared with hostile takeover), but this one will hold your interest all the way to the top. I beg to differ with the 5.10 rating for the upper section (though I suppose if the best holds are chalked up it could be easier than I found it). In any case, this is old school climbing so don't be surprised by the old school rating.
I thought the rock seemed solid, but just saw the comment about a trundled rock. Bottom line is that some crags like Gilman and Diablo (Solar Cave, Sun Devil and Winter Walls) just keep on exfoliating and can never be trusted. Be careful what you pull or step on and a helmet is highly recommended for belaying!