|Sugarloaf, West Face
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This route starts up the arete just left of Hyperspace. thin crack + arete to begin. Clip first bolt, a couple more arete moves, then transfer onto face and continue up to bolted anchor.
First .10c crux is directly above first bolt. Second crux is right before the anchor.
Upper west face of sugarloaf, just left of Hyperspace. Receives pm sun, and was sheltered from the wind somewhat.
small gear to protect opening moves. yellow alien + small nut. Then all bolts (8?)
The first crux is mantling at the first bolt.
One of the many difficult sections is here getting...
From: San Francisco
Mar 31, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Placed a .3 Camalot high in the crack from ground level, then gunned for the first bolt. Sustained moves from ground to just past the 1st bolt. Use the bomber arete/rail for left hand/foot.
Tricky mantle over the slopey rail up high.
I finished the route by making a big move out left and finishing up on the crack. I'm sure other options exist straight up on the face.
USE CAUTION WHEN PULLING YOUR ROPE AND LOWERING. There is a jug, shaped like a thick, pointed flake about 3/4 of the way up. Make sure that your rope is running over it and not under it. It will eat your rope.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 2, 2010
I used two Zeros (gray and blue) in the crack before the first bolt.
From the ground, the arete looks like the hard part and the upper section looks cruiser--but I personally found this to be reversed. I didn't have any real problems past the first bolt but found the crux to be the entire middle section of the route: between second and fourth bolts.
I also finished the route by going left into the crack at the top, but if you went straight up the face, it looked fairly blank, hard and cruxy (probably harder than anything below). Overall, most of the route requires you to climb mindfully.
Bring your A game in balance!
P.S. I believe there are 5 bolts total, not counting the anchor.
|By Paul Rezucha|
Apr 30, 2010
Happy Face was a great climb! Much longer than it looked with lots of continuous thought provoking climbing. I placed 2 small cams and a Metolius Astro brass nut as the highest piece in the initial crack which sowed up the starting sequence moves very nicely. Getting past the sloping mantle took some figuring out and the upper section didn't let up much. I did go straight up from the last bolt and the moves were very thin with feet a little above the bolt. Being in a somewhat sideways position, slipping from that position was not a fun option. I guess this was the crux of the climb for me. Mentally at least. All in all a very fun climb that was challenging from beginning to end!