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Super Crack Tower
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Happy Ending 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jon Ruth, Mark Geikenjoyner
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 754
Submitted By: markguycan on Nov 18, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Jon on FA

Description 

Traverse in fom the Right, climb thu limestone band to clip the first bolt then up interesting face past huecos and bulges to the gap between towers then stem and mantle to sweet summit ledge.


Location 

Right of Shotgun Wedding, rap the route


Protection 

7draws + 2small nuts to place over hangerless bolts. #0.5camalot protects the start/belayer.



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By bio
From: mesa, az
Feb 13, 2011

Although I had fun, especially at the step across on top, there is some strange stuff on this route. Two bolts are hangerless, one would take a hanger, the other is covered in glue of some sort. Also, there is a very unique threaded hueco with a piece of rope through it for a clip. I enjoyed the sense of humor and craftmanship on that one. The step across seemed harder than 5.7, probably height dependent and Mark is like 6'1" so prob felt easier for him. The route name is appropriate.

By markguycan
From: Wellington NZ
Apr 9, 2011

2 bolts were left hangerless as the rock is so soft the the bolts would not tighten. Epoxy was added to try to remedy this. The bolts are 6in x 1/2in monsters so with a small nut noosed around them they should be plenty safe. The climbing is not particularly difficult at these points. While I am a bit over 6'2" I have had 5'0" partners successfully negotiated the crux without much difficulty.