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Hin Tak
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Happy Banana S 
Karma S 

Happy Banana 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Wilfried Colanna, Bernard Domenech, Dolby Monet - Nov 1987
Page Views: 387
Submitted By: Ryan Williams on Jul 26, 2010

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Ram passing the crux on pitch 4.
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This was one of the first climbs in Thailand, and is one of the best moderate multi-pitch climbs in the country. Each new pitch brings on a different kind of climbing, and the setting can't be beat. Amazing photo opportunities as well.

P1: 5.5 - 30 ft. This pitch is a free solo unless you place slings. Start off the beach, on the obvious prow of rock just left of the large detached pinnacle. It is usually best for all climbers to solo up to the ledge and rack up at the base of P2.

P2: 5.10a - 60ft. Start in the corner, using the hand sized crack and face holds. There is a large boulder wedged in the crack about half way up that appears to be very solid. It is possible to do the climb without touching it, but it probably bumps the grade up to a .10b. Continue up to the belay on the block between the main wall and the detached pillar.

P3: 5.10c/d - 40ft. Traverse out and left on tiny sharp holds. This might feel hard for the grade. Head up on larger holds to the hanging belay below a roof. You could probably link all of the first three pitches together but the leader will hang for a while belaying.

P4: 5.11a - 70ft. This is a one move wonder. Climb up and right, out of the roof, and then climb the face in a right facing dihedral. Slopey holds make up the crux. Belay at the GIANT ledge.

P5: 5.10b - 50ft. This is the hero pitch. Climb out 200 feet over the beach on the biggest jugs you will ever pull on. Lower back to the ledge, get a picture, and have your partner toss you the rope and pull back to the belay. Pull the rope and let your partner lead.

Descent: You can do one 60 meter rappel from the giant ledge to the beach. If you only take one rope, go from the giant ledge to the top of P2 between the pinnacle and the main wall, and then a 2nd rap to the beach. Run down the beach away from the wall when you pull the rope or else it will get stuck up on P2 somewhere.


Location 

Start on the obvious outcropping just to the left of a detached pillar, right in the middle of the wall.


Protection 

12 draws, one 60m rope



Photos of Happy Banana Slideshow Add Photo
Lowering off the top anchor
Lowering off the top anchor
Start of Pitch 2.
Start of Pitch 2.
Pitch 2, start of the real climbing.  By Ram Sripracha
Pitch 2, start of the real climbing. By Ram Sripr...
Cleaning the last pitch so steep and good.  By Ram Sripracha
Cleaning the last pitch so steep and good. By Ram...
Comments on Happy Banana Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ken H
From: Bell's Canyon, UT
Feb 12, 2011

I recommend you bring all your stuff to the top of "pitch 1" as the monkeys will mostly stay out of it. On the beach they will get in everything including water bottles. At the top of one there is a bolt anchor and nice spot to leash packs in.

We linked pitches 3 and 4 as a party of three and belays were really nice. I found pitch 4 steep and stiff and definitely hung. Pitch 5 is what you came for, an amazing pitch so steep for the grade.

By anja
Feb 27, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I loved this climb! The last pitch is amazing! It is pretty cool to climb something that is about 10b and almost 45 degrees overhung, and even more amazing to do it at ~200' or so off the deck. :)