|306 page views|
When I first looked at this problem in the book, and saw the pointy block under the start, I completely wrote the problem off. Why would I do this thing? As it turns out, I was missing out on a great problem.
While working other stuff under the roof, I looked it over, and realized that it was actually very good. All the holds are decent: no little tweakies, and the moves are big and fun. Good footwork makes it much easier.
Start on the sloper, handjam, or underclings in the back, and work your way straight out the roof until you are climbing up the dual diagonal cracks. Grab the jug/fingerlock on the right crack and pull over to finish. The crux is making a throw from the juglet to the flared sloper as you turn the roof (awesome).
I never thought I would say so, but this problem is well worth booting up for. I give it 3/4 stars only because it's a little low and has the block underneath. Highly recommended.
Hanta Man is in the cave of the same name high in Mad Meadows. After passing The Pocket and The Undercling, on your way uphill towards Pimpsqueak, look for a low cave facing east (away from you as you are walking towards it). The leftmost route, which starts on underclings halfway out the roof is Superman, v10. The rightmost route is the crack: No Pain No Grain, v5, and Hanta Man follows an open-hand undercling and incut juglet out the center. God Is In The Details, v12, starts on Hanta Man and heads left to finish on Superman. All three of the problems that start on the right start on the underclings/hand jams in the deepest part of the cave.
You may need something on the pointy boulder under the first couple of moves. A pad will be too big, so maybe a sweatshirt, just to keep from tearing up some skin if you come off. One pad ought to be enough to make you comfortable to go for it, but it's a low roof, so you won't do any serious damage to yourself if you don't have a pad.