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Lost Orbit Rock - East Face
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Hannibal Lefter 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave LePere & Brad Singer, 11/99
Page Views: 500
Submitted By: Nathan Scherneck on Jun 27, 2010

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Description 

Climb the left leaning crack for 35'. Good hand jams and convenient foot holds on the face below. Once the crack splits go up the right side crack that fades out to a couple face moves.

Location 

NE face of Lost Orbit.

Protection 

To 4". .75 C4 was used several times. Several good stopper placements as well.

Build an anchor in the gully behind the top-out and belay from there.

Descend by walking down the gully towards the East. Some near 5th class moves at the bottom of the downclimb.


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By Alex Fletcher
From: San Clemente, CA
Aug 29, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I really liked this route and think it should have a better rating than it does. It's extremely accessible as well. Head round to the west face afterwards to get in a bunch of morning trad in the shade.

If you do this route, be taped up and competent in your hand jams or be prepared for the much more difficult and pumpy ways to use the crack as a hold instead of a jam. This is why I got pumped and had to take.

Pro says to 4" but I didn't see anything anywhere near that big that would be required to sew it up. Mostly used cams from BD #1 and down and medium to big nuts.

Have fun!

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