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Hangman's Climb 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve McKinney, Milo Pradonovitch
Page Views: 3,928
Submitted By: Marc Kajut on Jan 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Stemming out to clip the second bolt on Hangman's ...

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The difficult portion of this climb is right at the start between the 1st and 2nd bolts with some interesting footwork. The climb follows a ramp up and right, then traverses back to the left to a V slot.

Protection 

Five (5) bolt protection. Two bolt anchor.


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Hangman's Climb (5.9)
Hangman's Climb (5.9)

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By Adam Kimmerly
Apr 4, 2006

Fun route. The third bolt has been moved to a location that negates the necessity of supplemental gear on this route. The old SDCC guide mentioned a #4 TCU being necessary. The placement is still there if you want it, but the route is not runout or dangerous without it.
By MAR
Apr 11, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great Climb! The start moves on this may be 10a-ish if you are under 5.5. All finishing variations on this climb are good, but if you are going to set up a top rope it may be easiest to head straight up to the Obverse the Gap anchors past the last bolt. This, with a directional on the second bolt, makes for an awesome(low swing) TR. Enjoy!
By johnnydanger
From: California
May 8, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It was a hard start for me being 5'7. I was able to follow the rail to the right and up into the larger holds and to the ledge for a quick break. After that it was smooth sailing to complete the onsight. Pretty stoked and a fun climb. 5.10 moves at the bottom are what make the climb!
By jeffblankman
From: San Diego, Ca
Jan 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Haven't finished this one free, yet. The start is a bit scary. 1st bolt almost useless for safety. The second bolt is a tad high and at the crux of the climb.
By k-laminero
Jun 16, 2012

The first bolt on this route is loose. 2012-06-15.
By Industrialwrench
Oct 17, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Tightened first bolt. Successful onsite lead. Felt like a deck potential clipping the third bolt. I didn't see where the original 3rd bolt was...must have been nasty.
By k-laminero
Mar 31, 2014

One of the anchor bolt is spinning and rusty.
By Andrew Nelson
Jul 6, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Definitely a hard start! Chills out quite a bit after the first two bolts.