|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 150'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Michael Buchanan on Apr 6, 2007 with updates from choppinBolts|
|Comments on Hangman||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seems like cams down to .5 on P1 and .2ish on P2 are useful.
There's a slung block on top of P1 with a quicklink to belay from, the cordelette is showing some discoloration. You can back it up by slinging 2 small bushes but it would be hard to get a solid piece anywhere near.
Don't miss P2, it's stouter than P1 but sports some very good climbing and wild moves. The horn feature will leave you puzzled...
The walk off the top of P2 is plush.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 13, 2010
|Didn't the guide rate the first pitch 5.8? Awesome pitch and well protected with a 1 thru 3.5 camalot - use some long slings before and on bolts to minimize rope drag. Lasso the block at the base of 2nd pitch for belay. I second the 9++ rating for the 2nd pitch - wow!! very pumpy for me but great pro. You can now belay the 2nd at a beautiful gold rap-station at the top of some sick looking project. We barely made it to the ground from there with a 60m. If you do the third pitch a single-rope rap from it puts you close to the start of Boomerang.|
By Pete Wilk
May 28, 2013
|Walk to the right of the overlaps and you'll find the gold chains. A 70m will get you straight to the ground, though you'll only have a few meters left over. Sweet free hanging rap for about 50 feet of it.|
By Brennan Crellin
From: Draper, UT
Nov 3, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
P1 Pro: in the overhanging hand crack, I placed one each #.75, #1, then at the top of the handcrack, before traversing left, I placed a #4 (all with a 24" slings). You could sew it up by adding a #2, and another #4 (for mid-left traverse). The obvious tip of the flake could be slung with a 24" runner, before heading up the three bolts on the slab.
P2 Pro: Climb slab/chicken-heads, to enter crack above the second bush (to avoid wrestling with said bush). Even though the crack looks wide, it's narrow in the back and takes #0.5 - #2, we placed one of each.