Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Primo Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battle With a Bush 
Breakfast Club 
City Slickers 
Crying Flyboys 
Doomsday Birthday 
Eternal Recurrence 
Flyin' Child 
Flying Cowboys 
Grim Aura 
Groan Up 
Halle-Bop 
Hangman 
Hooves! 
Inner Gorilla 
Killer Pillar 
Less Happy Fun Time 
Mildage 
Mirthmobile 
Moving Out 
Primetime To Shine 
Primeval 
Problem Child 
Public Play 
Public Solitude 
Public Suck Shine 
Relative To Standing 
River Run 
Shine 
Squeeze Play 
Squeezing My Will to Live 
Suburban Cowgirls 
Sucking My Will to Live 
Sucking My Will to Squeeze 
Super Happy Fun Time 
Suspended Sentence 
Tater Tot 

Hangman 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson and Ken Trout, 1991
Page Views: 1,638
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 1, 2001
Good Page?1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Mike Davis at the last bolt on hangman. Photo by J...

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Hangman is the furthest route to the right (East) on Primo Wall and starts after the slabs - just off the trail. Hangman and Suspended Sentence share the first four clips up a near vertical face with an adjacent right-facing corner. Stem the corner, move out right onto the face, and solve the first fingery 5.12 crux. This will deposit you into a horrizontal slot that defines the beginning of the roof system. Cop a rest here. The roof can be had on its left for SS or on the right for Hangman. Either way, the roof gets surprisingly steep immediately with 5.12 cruxes to the left or the right. I found the Hangman finish to be a lot less rough on the hands, perhaps a little more obvious. Hangman finishes through the roof on an open seam/flake system of lay-aways that are surprisingly powerful. These holds look huge, but in a couple of places you are working some pretty thin crimps on a steep wall. Two stars for sure for the complex moves at the start, powerful climbing, and excellent stone. Toss in another beer for Alan Nelson and his route finding skills. By the way, did I mention that the roof was steep???


Protection 

QD only. This 40 ft route needs about 7 draws and you won't wish for fewer.



Photos of Hangman Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Davis starting out the roof on Hangman. Photo by James Ward.
Mike Davis starting out the roof on Hangman. Photo...
Comments on Hangman Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Davis
May 29, 2001

Really great route!! The 2nd bolt is a little out of line, so a longer draw is helpful on the 2nd and 3rd bolts to reduce some drag. Side Note: A friend of mine tried toproping this after I set it up and had an interesting, albeit hilarious, run in with the pine tree after taking a swing just below the roof.

By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Apr 13, 2008

Fun and powerful. Neat gaston at the crux.

By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Sep 26, 2009

Supposedly a hold broke on this in the roof, upping the grade substantially?

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Oct 23, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I've heard the same thing. A buddy of mine was out there not long ago with some friends, and they couldn't figure out they're way past it now that the hold has broken. He thought it was at least a number grade harder now.

By ZachS00
From: Denver, CO
Mar 6, 2010

I was on it today. I don't know what hold broke, but it's not a number grade harder than 12a/b.