Hanging Garden Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: View of the Hanging Garden, gully and gully routes...
This is one of the coolest places you will ever climb. It is perched high above the trail, at the top of Moore's Wall. The view is amazing and the exposure will get your heart pumping. It took me three trips to the Garden before I got the balls to climb anything!
The Hanging Garden has the highest concentration of hard climbing at Moore's. There are a handful of hard traditional routes up here with a few high end sport climbs mixed in. The rock quality is amazing, and the movement is even better. Every time I climb here, I come away saying "I can't believe that route goes on gear." Believe me when I say that these routes, while safe, would have been bolted if they were in any other part of the country. Leave it to the good old southern boys to keep their ethics in the face of hard, steep, and intimidating climbing.
The angle of the wall keeps it in the shade, and because it sits 150 feet above the base of the main wall, it stays cool most of the time.
Once you've taken the left onto the powerline road, walk for a few minutes until you see a park sign on the right pointing to the Sentinel Buttress trail. Turn right and head up the trail, following signs for the Sentinel Buttress. Once you get close to the wall, the trail splits and either heads left toward the Central Wall or right toward the Sentinel Buttress. Go right, and walk past the Sentinel Buttress and then past the Fire Wall. Continue for 100 yards and look for a 4th class (steep and vegetated) gully that leads up to the big overhang that creates Pooh Corner. The Thomas Kelly book says "if you pass a large block with an orange and white face, you've gone a little too far."
Alternatively, climb Midlife Crisis
to the rappel tree on the left side of the Garden. This is a great warm up, and the best way to access the goods that hang over you.
Climbing Season For the Moore's Wall area.
Weather station 4.0 miles from here
22 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Hanging Garden
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hanging Garden
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hanging Garden:
Gnatty Pale 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Pooh Corner 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Catnip 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Primal Rage 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Aries 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Pygmalion 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Double Dare 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Zeus 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Hercules 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Hanging Garden
Season in Hell 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a NC
: Moore's Wall
: Hanging Garden
Season in Hell is an excellent variation to Zeus, adding another fun boulder problem up high. Climb Zeus through the crux roof to the fourth bolt. Instead of clipping the fixed pin, clip a bolt out right and bust a few big pulls on good holds with bad feet. Place a small piece in the horizontal and move up and right past one more bolt to the anchors.Supposedly, the first ascent climbed directly up from the last bolt. While this would add some harder climbing (though not nearly as hard as the low...[more] Browse More Classics in NC
Seth Tart on Zeus (5.13b). Photo by David Hill.