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Hanging Chain
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Hanging Chain 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Doug Reed, Byron Bridges, Tim Fisher
Page Views: 512
Submitted By: chummer on Nov 3, 2012
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Description 

Hanging Chain has some of the best (only) crack climbing in North Carolina. Perched way up over Hickory Nut Gorge, this pumpy route is a classic and likely the best crack of it's grade in N.C.

The route begins with some do not fall territory that leads to sustained and often heads up crack and face climbing. Be on the lookout for a thin section at the top of the crack section. The route changes character near the top for some enjoyable and technical face climbing. Technical and thin moves near the top could make for a heartbreaking finish.


Location 

Scramble low 5th and 4th class terrain up ledges to a perch beneath a bolt. Head straight up to the crack above.


Protection 

A healthy set of stoppers and a single set of cams from micro to a #3 camalot should do it. 4 Bolts protect the top. Bolted anchors. A 70m rope is recommended.



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By Abel Jones
From: Hickory, NC
Mar 17, 2013

Wild and full value. Another stout 12b at the bald. Using one rope requires quite a few runners but isn't too bad. Currently a fixed nut right after the crux won't keep you from taking flight since you will most likely peel off before being able to clip it. It does tame things a bit on the send though. An amazing complement to Spry look. This one is not nearly as crimpy but is pretty extreme on pump. Bring a nut tool to clean out the fixed stuff please.