|(7) Heaven's Wall
Starts from Cloud 9 Ledge. A bit of an adventure for Ozone! (See info in "location" section on how to access the start). From the belay anchor, traverse right around the corner to a ledge. The crux is just above the ledge at the start of the climb. Head up the face, following the bolt line. Protect runouts with gear. At the top of the wall, move left about 20 feet to the "A Love Supreme" anchor. Two rappels.
Starts from the Cloud 9 Ledge (to the right of "Heaven's Ledge"). To access it, start climbing "Stairway to Heaven." After the 2nd bolt, traverse up and right to another bolt. After that, gear protects to the ledge and belay anchor. (Same as pitch 1 of "A Love Supreme.")
2 rappels down from the top anchors.
Gear to 1" and bolts (4 or 5? - at least one more than the 3 shown in the Ozone guidebook). Anchors at top.
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
Nov 11, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
This route has five bolts, plus a bolt to protect the traverse to the anchors. It looks like this bolt used to be part of an anchor but the other one got chopped. Once you step around the corner, there is a perfect nut slot to protect the move up to the first bolt.
The route is rather tricky to find... we first tried the routes directly above and to the left of Cloud 9 ledge. Both are majorly runout with sparse/nonexistent gear placements (maybe due to all the vegetation?). I have no intention of going back to do those routes. This one is quite fun, however, with a little exposure around the corner, and a SWEET view from the top.
|By Jonathan Stewart|
Nov 13, 2013
I will be adding at least 2 bolts to A Love Supreme so that you won't have to bring 5 (.75 camolots) that have stacked scetchy placements. A Love Supreme is one of my most favorite climbs, but your right about the runouts on scetchy gear. Probably has to due to me climbing it ground up in the winter with a head full of arrogance. Don't have that head anymore.
A Bitches Brew (5.9) will remain runout as its a perfect top rope and a heady lead.
Will also be replacing the anchor for Hang Up Your Hang Ups. Also a favorite moderate of mine.