Hang on to your ego
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Arguably one of the best 5.12 climbs at the Obed. Perfect rock. Sustained climbing. Great Pro. Crux at the very end. In an area of sport routes this climb is a fantastic testpiece for those looking for a little bit more excitement and challenge. Robinson scored a gem from the locals and fortunately inspired a few to put a few trad routes of their own.
The first truly impressive wall you encounter as you walk the cliff line. Set away from the trail a bit locate the obvious right slanting crack on the orange overhanging wall. Lower from bolts
If going for the onsight don't bother reading. If you want some gear beta here it is. The crack in the begining takes large to medium wires. 2-3 should do fine. Next up is some medium size TCU's. At the first real overhang place Purple camalot. Crank the hard move. Traverse right. Place Green camalot. Clip bolt. Crank crux. Get stood up and place blue metolius. I won't say where... Run it to the chains.
By David Barbour
Mar 24, 2014
Fantastic route that I will definitely revisit for the send. I can't figure out why the bolt is there considering there is a bomber #1 or #2 cam placement right below it!