|Future Games Rock
This mixed route is in between Bendix Claws to the left and Continuum to the right. A left leaning crack leads to two bolts to a 5.10 crack (that parallels Bendix Claws) with a pin, to a one bolt face finish.
3 bolts, fixed pin, gear to 1.5"
Feb 10, 2008
Top is difficult; can't remember if I ever actually did all the moves but led through it one way or another.
|By Kris Solem|
From: Monrovia, CA
Mar 17, 2010
I found this climb to be difficult to redpoint, and getting it took several visits after the day when Jan, Herb and I got the bolts in place (ground up by hand of course.)
The moves entering the crux are hard so setting up right for the crux is part of the deal. I finally got it when I used double ropes. I ran one cord for all the pro up to the crux including the fixed pin, then the first clip for the second rope was the crux bolt. This method made the clip easier, and I was able to focus on setting up for the moves and climbing through.
The pin was a point of aid to place the high bolt. I decided to leave it since, for a climber using a single rope, clipping the bolt is hard and the pro below the pin is thin.
|By Brian Treanor|
Mar 8, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
I was back on this today (3/7/13) for the first time an a couple of years. Still hard! The reason for this post is to make a few comments:
(1) I think some of the edges around the pin have deteriorated since my last voyage up Hang 'em High. The crux is still the area from the third bolt up to the juggy flakes at top (I'm 5'9" and it seemed like another 2-3 inches of reach would have made a world of difference reaching the good sidepull above the 3rd bolt). However, now the area getting from the pin to the third bolt is (or seemed today--high gravity?) stout as well. Moreover, there are additional holds that are, perhaps, not long for this world. In particular the (thick) potato-chip flake down and left from the pin, which is absolutely crucial for me to get to the third bolt. It is very, very difficult to use some of these holds without exerting outward force. I've got to drive the aforementioned flake below my waist while gastoning to get the bolt, and can't do so without some outward force.
(2) The comments in #1 are significant because the pin is looking pretty dodgy to me. The crack is decent there, but it is the grainy Josh junk in that part of the crack. Add to that that the pin is bent and beginning to show rust, and the whole situation for the placement doesn't inspire, especially given that the moves there seem to have gotten a bit more difficult. There is good pro in the crack below (as Kris says)--I got a nut and a couple of red C3 placements--but the gear is small and some parts of the crack are a bit rotten. If Kris thinks it is a good idea to leave the pin in, perhaps it should be inspected and, possibly, replaced sometime in the not-too-distant future? I won't do it, since I'd prefer that Kris evaluate it and make the call.
This is a stellar route, as I told Kris after I first got on it a few years ago. Really, really, really good. Also, if the upper crux is too hard, a really fun variation is to start Hang 'em High and then transition over to Bendix Claws at the fixed pin--harder this way than Bendix, but still much easier than the finish of Hang 'em High.
Finally, having recently been back on some other 12s in Josh, I do think this might be a bit harder than the 12a/b rating (relative to other 12s in Josh). I'd give it a solid 12 or a 12b/c on Mountain Project's scale which goes 12a, 12-, 12a/b, 12b, 12, 12b/c, 12c...
From: So Cal
Mar 24, 2014
Time for that pin to go away. Bomber gear about 4 inches below (purple Metolius) and another one 18 inches below (blue Metolius) the pin. The crux is the move off the big underling flake to a very small left hand crimp then a good high right foot and throw to another bad crimp up and right with the right hand. The moves getting to the big undercling flake are not bad, maybe 11 but you would have the bolt clipped by then. Great route.