Walk up the four - five gully as if you are going to Eyetooth. When you get with in view of Spire Four you will see a small roof about half way up on the south/southeast side. Climb a series of cracks and flakes to the small roof. At the roof climb out right to a hanging belay with chain anchors. Hence the name "Hang a Right at Fourth Avenue". From the anchor move to the right and catch the small seam that continues to grow into a larger crack as it goes up. Follow this to the top.
I use everthing from small brass nuts to a number 4 friend. In fact I usually take one of each friend and I take two number 4's Up high a person could use something bigger after the high bolt in the off width of the second pitch, but I never seem to. I've climbed this route several times.
|By Brian Sadowsky|
From: salt lake city
Sep 13, 2008
I climbed this route several years ago and I think it is my favorite route in the Needles. Varied climbing on great rock---its got a bit of everything. The routes position is fantastic, and you view one the nicest climbing settings I have ever seen. Ask Bob how he drilled the lead bolt on the 2nd pitch!
|By Keith Noback|
Aug 1, 2009
Thanks for putting this route up. It's my all time favorite Needles route, though I still live in dread of the top of pitch 2.