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 ADVANCED
a. The Uberfall
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Flake, The T,TR 
Handy Andy T 
Harvard T 
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Katzenjammer T 
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Sonja T 
Squiggles T 
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Stupid Crack T 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 
Sudoriferous T 
Susie A T 
Trapped Like a Rat T 
Uberfall Descent T 
Walter Mitty T 
Yale T 
Unsorted Routes:

Handy Andy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Andress, 1956 FFA: Gerry Bloch, 1956
Page Views: 1,044
Submitted By: grk10vq on Apr 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Handy Andy

Description 

A route with numerous variations, Handy Andy does not disappoint. The path of least resistance starts off tricky on steep terrain. Deliberately choose your moves through the first two pins. Traverse left to some small crimps and aim to gain the arete. From here climb straight up to the crack and enjoy a comfortable stance. Follow this right leaning crack over moderate ground, past a tree to the ledge above.

Var.2 (.10d/.11a) Begin 12 feet left of original start under the obvious roof. Boulder your way through the overhang, unprotected, to a dark colored area of rock, cruise right then up to join the crack. FA: D. Williams, 1964


Location 

Handy Andy is among four or five routes when first entering the Trapps. It sits 35 feet right and around the corner from Katzenjammer in a right-facing corner on a root system opposite a tree.


Protection 

Two pins protect the original start, slings and larger pieces are ... handy. Cams from a .75 to a #5 bd will fit - hexes too, if you desire. Eye up the crack and choose your own adventure. A small and large tree on the ledge above are suitable anchors.

Walk off left.



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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 5, 2010

I seconded this climb. Very thin climbing through the first couple of pins. NOt sure the pins would hold a fall through this delicate and technical climb. Fun on TR.

By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 27, 2011

I climbed this in 2007... first 5.7 I ever climbed. I distinctly remember pulling on one of the pins to make it up on TR. Fun climb.

By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Not for the new 5.7 leader. Plenty of hard options on this and I can see how you can easily get off route/confused. I think if you traverse the crack all the way out from the pin it would be 5.7 but I wasn't 100% sure what was out on the arete so I went straight up from the pin. Found it a good deal harder than what I was expecting and was grateful when I reached the large crack on the corner. Lo and behold I was on a variation that is like 5.8+/5.9ish; the gear looked better this way. A large hex (like #8,9, or 10...or a #5 cam if you wanna haul it) would be nice to drop in the large crack when you exit the lower section. I somehow made a brown tri-cam work there. Otherwise there isn't much gear for a few more moves. Fun, hard way to end the weekend!

By Kristian Starheim
From: Boston, MA
Jun 21, 2014

Small X4-cams and small nuts came in very handy on the start slab. Going from the first to the second thin crack I felt that falling would be a ground-fall, though, so good margins are recommended.