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Handsome and Well-Hung 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Pliess, Augustino '83
Page Views: 5,816
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007
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Ladd pulling the last moves above the crux.

Description 

Beautiful route.
This route climbs the amazing looking corner under the roof. Very tenuous moves stemming in the corner with small gear and finger locks/laybacks just out of reach. This route has a beginning, middle(crux) and end.

Crux of this climb is moving off a thin layback pinching a high undercling and deadpointing up and left with no feet. Smearing high and bumping up an right to a pinch then leaving your now comfortable undercling to get a jug way up there. Throw in a hand-jam and remember to breathe before finishing the 5.8+ moves to the anchors.


I got on the front page of the Register Herald 7/24/07(Beckley, WV) for leading this climb. Ladd Raine 'busting a move'


Location 

Obvious corner under huge roof at trailhead.


Protection 

1-3 inchers in the bottom section to small cams (blue-yellow aliens) through the crux. The upper section takes green aliens and protects well.

Lower from anchors.



Photos of Handsome and Well-Hung Slideshow Add Photo
Ladd just entering the crux
Ladd just entering the crux
Jeff making the reach on Handsome and Well-Hung...
Jeff making the reach on Handsome and Well-Hung...
Just past the crux. Circa '97.
Just past the crux. Circa '97.
Staring at the next few moves
Staring at the next few moves
Comments on Handsome and Well-Hung Add Comment
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 22, 2007

I took a 10 foot or so fall on this one the other day on my blue alien, man I love that piece...

By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Aug 10, 2009

^ ladd, i took a surprise fall on this route a few years back. i think a .75 camalot was the piece that stopped me. i flew for a 15 footer when my foot just popped; it didn't dampen my enthusiasm for this classic route!

By Dan Brayack
From: Marmet, WV
Feb 10, 2011

NO way I'd dyno on that move...I remember being able to shove a small C3 up under the left flake in the middle of the crux...harder, but then you can do the move on TR and not worry about getting jacked...