Beautiful route. This route climbs the amazing looking corner under the roof. Very tenuous moves stemming in the corner with small gear and finger locks/laybacks just out of reach. This route has a beginning, middle(crux) and end.
Crux of this climb is moving off a thin layback pinching a high undercling and deadpointing up and left with no feet. Smearing high and bumping up an right to a pinch then leaving your now comfortable undercling to get a jug way up there. Throw in a hand-jam and remember to breathe before finishing the 5.8+ moves to the anchors.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jul 22, 2007
I took a 10 foot or so fall on this one the other day on my blue alien, man I love that piece...
By sean barb From: winston salem, north carolina, Aug 10, 2009
^ ladd, i took a surprise fall on this route a few years back. i think a .75 camalot was the piece that stopped me. i flew for a 15 footer when my foot just popped; it didn't dampen my enthusiasm for this classic route!
NO way I'd dyno on that move...I remember being able to shove a small C3 up under the left flake in the middle of the crux...harder, but then you can do the move on TR and not worry about getting jacked...