Handsome and Well-Hung 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Pliess, Augustino '83 |
| Submitted By: | Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007 |
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Ladd pulling the last moves above the crux.
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Description Beautiful route. This route climbs the amazing looking corner under the roof. Very tenuous moves stemming in the corner with small gear and finger locks/laybacks just out of reach. This route has a beginning, middle(crux) and end. Crux of this climb is moving off a thin layback pinching a high undercling and deadpointing up and left with no feet. Smearing high and bumping up an right to a pinch then leaving your now comfortable undercling to get a jug way up there. Throw in a hand-jam and remember to breathe before finishing the 5.8+ moves to the anchors. I got on the front page of the Register Herald 7/24/07(Beckley, WV) for leading this climb. Ladd Raine 'busting a move'
Location Obvious corner under huge roof at trailhead.
Protection 1-3 inchers in the bottom section to small cams (blue-yellow aliens) through the crux. The upper section takes green aliens and protects well. Lower from anchors.
Ladd just entering the crux
| Just past the crux. Circa '97.
| Jeff making the reach on Handsome and Well-Hung...
| Staring at the next few moves
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| Comments on Handsome and Well-Hung |
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By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jul 22, 2007
| I took a 10 foot or so fall on this one the other day on my blue alien, man I love that piece... |
By sean barb From: winston salem, north carolina, Aug 10, 2009
| ^ ladd, i took a surprise fall on this route a few years back. i think a .75 camalot was the piece that stopped me. i flew for a 15 footer when my foot just popped; it didn't dampen my enthusiasm for this classic route! |
By Dan Brayack From: Marmet, WV Feb 10, 2011
| NO way I'd dyno on that move...I remember being able to shove a small C3 up under the left flake in the middle of the crux...harder, but then you can do the move on TR and not worry about getting jacked... |
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