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Start right of Teetotaler. Follow the path; you can set the belay on a couple of different flat spots. You can't miss this dihedral. Climb easy terrain (with good pro if you want it) up to the base of the dihedral, perhaps 40 feet. Now head straight up. The pro is good, and you can stem or layback your way up it. I thought the pitch was harder than Grins (to the left, a 5.8), perhaps because the protection is not as easy as Grins. Regardless, this is a fun pitch, well worth doing.
Standard rack with hexes up to #10. At the top of the dihedral, you can set an anchor (tricam/cams/stoppers). You can also traverse left to anchors, but you'll get rope drag. Finally, you can go all the way to the top. I set an anchor, brought up the 2nd, then traversed to the bolts and rapped on a 60m rope.
BETA PHOTO: At the crux move looking down.
Photo by Brad Cunn...
|By Patrick Higgins|
Jan 20, 2003
The protection gets a little thin (small nuts) a few moves into the dihedral, but I was still able to put about 12 pieces into this route, and they all seemed quite solid. This thing eats medium cams--I used a #0.75, 2-#1, 2-#2, a #3, and a #3.5 Camalots, plus a couple of stoppers (#4, #9, and #13, I think). Don't be worried about the pro.
The stems are fun, but the good part of the route is so short that I'm not really sure it's worth it. Happy Hour has a lot of better climbs.
|By Joe Brannan|
From: Erie, CO
Jul 31, 2008
Protection was good the whole way. The option for easy stemming through the crux makes this a 5.7. Pretty short, but worth the quick go.
|By David M Jones|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 12, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Toproped this route with my 7 year old daughter and my friend Monique who is mostly an indoor climber. We all had a good time. This is a good route to toprope since their are plenty of anchoring locations at the top and the route is almost entirely vertical except for the very bottom. It is also a good climb for enthusiastic but non-hard-core kids; not too much of an approach, a fairly short route and a relatively nice place to hang out at the bottom.
|By Brown Guy|
From: Lafayette, CO
Oct 4, 2009
Pretty short... I thought the moves felt harder than on Malign, but then I'm not good at stemming / thin cracks. I agree with the 5.7 rating although I felt it was harder than the other Happy Hour 5.7s I've led.
|By Tits McGee|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 26, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
As already stated, this route is short, but definitely worth while. I felt the crux was harder than the given rating of 5.7 with small/tricky protection. That being said, the moves are all there and was a fun climb.