|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||chummer on Jan 14, 2008|
|Comments on Hands Across America||Add Comment|
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Apr 13, 2008
Full disclosure, have not redpointed...
The cruxes aren't where you'd think they'd be. You can also do the "Jerry Roberts" method in which you tie into both ends of the rope and drop the "first 1/2" after the 2nd roof no need for doubles...the midpitch anchor was pretty shoddy and not equalized as of 2/08. This climb can be wet depending on the mood of the h20 fall.
By Stone Brew
From: Chattanooga, TN
Mar 19, 2012
|There isn't supposed to be a midway anchor, that needs to go soon.|
By American Dankster
Mar 22, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
|2008? Are you talking about the two pitons...they ripped (one on whip). Mighty fun on two ropes. But there is some gear in the roof where you wouldn't be switching ropes anyway. (hint: try cleaning the route)|
Dec 16, 2014
|I climbed this on one rope with just a little drag. Extending pieces and only placing a reasonable amount of gear was the key. World class route!|
From: Atlanta, GA
Mar 8, 2016
Update to the Protection section on this route description:
There's no fixed gear at the lip of the big roof. At this writing, there are 3 fixed pieces in the big roof - a nut, the slung chockstone and another nut.
Boulder problem at the last mini-roof has 2 fixed nuts that held a whip yesterday. One cable looked a little rusty.
I wouldn't say using two ropes is mandatory, but I ended up using that beta. Less drag, and if you switch ropes after the mega roof it isn't too cumbersome.
Tie in, rack up, have fun :-)