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Routes in Middle Small Wall
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Devine Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Handjob T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Investigator T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lactic Acid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Layback Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Marmalade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Quest, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | E. Lecroix, T. Seibert, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 4,335 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 27, 2006 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
A great climb on great jams with solid rock and pro most of the way. A good warm up for some of the harder lines in the area.
Climb the obvious hand and fist crack, passing a roof at mid height (crux) and continue to a big ledge and belay.
To descend, rap from a set of bolted anchors which have replaced the fixed slings up top.
Climb the obvious hand and fist crack, passing a roof at mid height (crux) and continue to a big ledge and belay.
To descend, rap from a set of bolted anchors which have replaced the fixed slings up top.
Location
From the main approach trail, turn left and go under a large, wide roof, which houses the hard routes, Which Way is Up (10d) and Basecamp (11b). Continue past the roof past a radical looking chimney Hidey-Ho (5.10) and perhaps 70 feet further, passing Investigator (5.7) and Lactic Acid (5.9) to reach a flat wall split left-to-right by an obvious hand and fist crack and top-to-bottom by a small roof. The obvious crack is Handjob, a stout 5.9.
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