Located left of Lower Progressive, this is a stiff little piece of offwidth climbing to contend with. Beware the Vedauwoo 5.7 wide crack!
Note that the photo on page 88 of the guidebook has the climb incorrectly labelled- the 30 arrow points to Lower Progressive, where as HJ is the climb to the left. The obvious flake at the start is a fun, if moderate, boulder problem.
It has good protection and sustained climbing. We have now entered the realm of climbs that are a LOT harder if technique is not employed. If you have followed the progression described in Easy Jam, by now you should feel confident on this one.
Arm bars, heel-toe, foot torque-cams, knee wedges...use it all, and pause every so often to remind yourself that, indeed, this IS fun.
This was my first attempted lead at Vedauwoo as a beginning leader. We thought we were doing the "recommened" 5.6 Stinkzig. Bring some big bro's in the 2-3 size. A #4 Camalot will not cut it, as we found out that day. Luckly for us, some locals helped us retrive our gear. The climbing is easy until you get to the under cling flake on the left face, only good technique will get you to the top from there.
Or better yet, don your favorite pair of rollarskates and do it like they do at the "Fat Crack Festival." Best time with a pair of size 11 Rollerskates is 4 minutes flat.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Apr 30, 2002 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
I was once told by a local that the guidebook had errors at the right hand side of this cliff, and thus this 5.9 route had been misprinted as a 5.7. That may or may not be true, but more or less, they said that the book had all of the grades listed one-to-the-left of the respective route. Can anyone confirm this?
I was duped. I though I was on Stinkzig right side start. I left a good hunk of the skin on my right side on this Vedawound classic looking for that "good pro". Bring any and every big piece of gear you can, I didn't trust any of my two placements (one large hex and a fully expanded Metolius#10, both to small). The second pitch is great. look for good rap anchors to the right and down 50 to 60 feet, two ropes, also not mentioned in the guide.
We too were duped by the picture in the book and thought we were on Stinkzig. This is definitely a sandbag. I was able to protect it with a #11 Hex down low and #4 Camalot right before the bulge. That was all of the big gear that I had. A real grunt. Don't think I'd give it 3 stars and Stinkzig 1 star. I liked the upper pitch of Stinkzig better than this.
Great beginner Vedauwoo offwidth. This one is fun.
By Brian Scoggins From: Eugene, OR Sep 21, 2003 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b
Bring a #5 Camalot and just walk it with you. As to the grade, yes it is 5.7+. I could get up the thing, ergo 5.7+. Watching all the champions do this in big green Incredible Hulk gloves was quite the entertainment.
Also, I used 1 #4 Camalot, two #4.5, and a #5 I walked with me most of the way. You can get good placements for all of those, deep in the crack, but its easier to climb the thing if you're not that deep in.
If you really wanted to sew it up, you could bring 2x #6 camalot and a #5 camalot plus a #3 or #4 big bro. I placed my first big bro on this route, but it fell out. The 6 would have kept me off the deck though.
Traverse right to bolted anchors on Lower Progressive or continue to the top.