Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Indian Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Handful of Crack, Fistful of Pockets T 
Kindred Spirits S 
Pierced Ear S 
Raindance S 
Rat Race T 

Handful of Crack, Fistful of Pockets 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: J. Visser, M. Kindred
Page Views: 1,780
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Perin Blanchard about a third of the way up the fi...

Description 

Originally climbed as two pitches, but can be done as a single pitch with a 60m rope.

P1 Starts on a shelf a few feet above the valley floor and climbs a right-facing crack along a large flake. A couple of face moves are helpful where the crack closes down. The angle is pretty relaxed so liebacking is not at all strenuous.

P2 Not to be missed and makes the climb a much more exciting outing. From the top of the first pitch the second pitch moves over a few face moves that are more mental than physical and are protected by drilled angles.

Location 

This route is 20 to 30 feet to the right of the main Indian Wall area. It starts on a stepped shelf and the crack/flake angles slightly right. (The left-facing crack that curves to the left at the right side of the Indian Wall isn't it - go a bit farther right).

Protection 

Medium and large nuts and medium cams (#2 and #3 Camalot C4s). There is a hanger-and-chain anchor with a quicklink at the top.


Photos of Handful of Crack, Fistful of Pockets Slideshow Add Photo
Ethan Blanchard having fun with the nut tool.
Ethan Blanchard having fun with the nut tool.
Gwen Blanchard two-thirds of the way up the first ...
Gwen Blanchard two-thirds of the way up the first ...

Comments on Handful of Crack, Fistful of Pockets Add Comment
Show which comments
By justin marquis
Dec 20, 2008

I did this climb on a trip to the area a 2 years ago. The second pitch is not to be missed and makes the climb a much more exciting outing. From the top of the first pitch the second pitch moves over a few face moves that I remember being more mental than physical and were protected by drilled angles. We linked the first and second pitch with a 60m rope, no problem.... would recommend giving it a go....
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 30, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Just combine the two pitches to make one great climb. The crack is really good! Placed a little of everything up to #4 cam. Then skip the anchor and make one really tough 5.9 move over the little roof and then finish with some cool pockets. Two bolts protect the upper half (p2). Chains to rap.
By Dave Daly
From: Del Mar, CA
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agreed.....don't miss the 2nd pitch. As a 80' climb, its' easily one pitch, checking in at 5.9 (might want to change the rating to that vice 5.7). The first pitch was fun too.
By Nathan Marsh
From: st. george utah
Jan 17, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

We linked the two pitches together easily. would recommend doing that. fun variation up top. however there is alot of rope drag and pulling the rope proved difficult. We ended up hiking a few feet north of the route and the rope pulled much easier
By Mike C.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 17, 2013

There are no chains at the top of the second ptich, just two bolts next to each other that are spinners, and one bolt that is very far away from the other bolts. Very fun second pitch!