|North Whizz Dome
P1. I would have to disagree with the topo as far as where the crux is. I felt the true crux was at about 20 feet with its flared thin hands, rattly fingies and polished layback. Its a little hard/pumpy to pro. Skip the obvious bolted anchor (its a good shake-out) and continue through a second crux of 10+ and cool stemming and finger locks. (These ratings apply to 6' male...Switch the crux sections around if you are shorter and have small hands). At the top of the corner/roof, make a short, cool traverse left to an easy squeeze with lots of knobs and belay above off good nuts. (11a PG-13 and incredible fun)
P2. Up to the roof and traverse left on a hand rail to an ugly, knobby chimney. (5.7 R)
On the northwest face of the dome. It will be obvious!
set of cams from blue Alien - #4 Friend sizes with extra yellow Alien - red Camalot sizes, med/large wired nuts
|By Greg DeMatteo|
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 16, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
Dale Bard was the first to climb it all in one pitch I believe. Split into 2 pitches it is probably more like 5.10+. I agree with Alex regarding the 2 cruxes...pretty obvious really but if you punch through there are great hand jams that await.
It's been a while since I did it, but I don't recall any part of it being "PG13." One of the finest cracks in Tuolumne and well worth traipsing around for.
|By Rob Dillon|
Aug 25, 2008
I really dug this one- definitely worth seeking out.
Perhaps the first ascentionists would be amenable to moving their (strangely placed mid-pitch) anchor to the top of the corner...it doesn't make any sense where it is, and the topout is nothing special.
Pro is abundant throughout the corner.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Sep 18, 2008
You would dig it Rob, more like a T-Wall route than anything I've seen in the Meadows! Outstanding route, beautiful setting. Nothing PG-13 about it, just be smart about where and when you place your gear. It's all good.
|By Rob Dillon|
Jul 9, 2009
We actually climbed a kind of exhilaratingly T-Wall-esque topout variation- rather than going left to the chimney, stayed m/l straight up on exposed arete and facey ledges and stuff. Kinda heads-up, 5.8 or -9.
I emailed Roger Breedlove about the anchor and he basically said "call Jim, it was his show."
|By Phil Esra|
Aug 6, 2012
More fun and interesting than Tideline, I thought. Similar difficulty.