Hand Me Down  5.8 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  unknown Season:  summer-autumn (dry) Submitted By:  rhyang on Oct 30, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Hand Me Down (5.8) -- looking up first pitch

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Raptor Closures! MORE INFO >>> Like a lot of the Pinnacles area, the High Peaks is subject to raptor closures. These closures affect all of the high peaks. The closures typically begin mid January and continue through to the middle of July. Please take these closures seriously. Our access to the High Peaks depends on our ability to respect these closures. For more info on closures go to the Friends of Pinnacles website (www.pinnacles.org/climbing_info/index.html) This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>> Emergency Closure for Condor Nesting The area within the following boundary is closed to public access for the protection of wildlife: * From the summit of the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660722, N4038501) west following an unnamed ridge to a point due south of the Western Front rock formation (UTM E660328, N4038999) * From the Western Front rock formation north (UTM E660328, N4038999) and northeast, encompassing the Resurrection Wall formation to a junction with the Juniper Canyon Trail (UTM E660800, N4039401), 1/3 mi from the Juniper Canyon trailhead) * Along the southern side of the Juniper Canyon Trail to a junction with a ridgeline extending due north from the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660956, N4039214) * Extending south along the ridgeline to the summit of the Goat Rock formation. The Resurrection Wall and Western Front formations, and the west face of Goat Rock are closed. The Juniper Canyon trail and the east face of Goat Rock remain open. All current raptor advisory areas remain in effect. Signage has been posted at strategic locations. Violation of this emergency closure (36 CFR 1.5(f)) or 16 U.S.C 1531-1543 is punishable by a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment for not exceeding six months, or both. Resurrection Wall 2010 Submitted By: Closures and Restrictions on May 10, 2010 This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Pitch 1 (120', 5.8) : Climb a right-trending hand crack for 70'. It narrows down briefly to fingers and then closes up to a seam. Then follow some slabby stuff 50' (no pro that I saw, but easy terrain) up to a two-bolt belay in an alcove.

Pitch 2 (80' ? fourth - easy fifth) : Head up knobs, trending right into a low-angle chute and belay off a single bolt.

Location 

The Fault Zone is a buttress just below Long's Folly; routes end near the High Peaks trail (walk off).

To get there, take the High Peaks trail north from the junction with the Juniper Canyon trail (there is an outhouse near the junction). Descend a ways, and then begin ascending again, then turn right down what looks like a deer trail. If you start heading up some steps cut into the rock accompanied by handrails, you've gone too far.

The junction is 2 miles from the Bear Gulch parking lot, with about 1200' elevation gain.

There will be a steep, left-leaning crack heading up the buttress to a black water streak -- this is Condor 70 (5.10a R). Continue right through some trees and observe a chimney-looking thing heading up. Then turn to your left and see the beautiful hand crack (north-facing).

Protection 

Cams from 0.6" to 2.5 or 3" (the crack widens briefly), maybe a set of nuts.

The guidebook mentioned a bolt somewhere on the first pitch, but I seem to have missed it.

Tape might be handy -- the rock is sharp and knobby inside the crack.

Photos of Hand Me Down Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Condor 70 (5.10a R), to the left of the route

Noal on first pitch, near where the crack narrows ...