Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Cynical Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buffaloes in Space T 
Center Route T 
Center Route P3 Variation T 
Class Act S 
CMC Route T 
Hand Job (aka West Face) T 
Hand Job Direct T 
Monkey in the Forest T 
Off-width Route TR 
Rap Crack T 
Rising Crescendo T 
Rubber Ducky T 
Turf Spreader T 
Twist O' Flex T 
Wunsch's Dihedral T 

Hand Job Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,139
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Nov 20, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Start with the left crack and switch to the right ...

  • May 24, 2013 Spot Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route is on the Cynical Pinnacle. It starts below the obvious line of Hand Job which leads to the top of the Pinnacle in 4 pitches.

    If hiking up from the road towards the start of Center Route and Wunsch's, look for the obvious line of Monkey's in the Forrest, it has a small tree with slings on it, and contnue uphill to the next crack. It looks obvious and good from the ground.

    Start off with steep hand jams which lead to the crux where the crack widens a bit. Move right above the crux into a different crack and follow this (5.8+ hands) to the walk off ledge.

    Walk off to the left making some rather exposed scrambling moves.

    Protection 

    Pro up to #3 Camalot, double #2 and #3.


    Photos of Hand Job Direct Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Another view.
    Another view.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The start.  Halloween.
    The start. Halloween.

    Comments on Hand Job Direct Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ken Trout
    From: Golden, CO
    Dec 30, 2003
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Chris Hodge, Mike Surkalo, and I climbed this back in winter, 1974. Probably a first ascent. Later in the spring we finished Hand Job all the way to the Wunsch's bolt ladder and summit with another guy from high school named Barry.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Hodge.
    Chris Hodge.

    We did not name the route Hand Job or anything else, That is one of the lies from the Brown Book, but the jamming sure messed up our hands.

    It would be better if hand job had a double bolt anchor at the top. We hadn't been to the valley yet in '74 and didn't know how to set up single pitch cracks properly.

    Thanks for pointing out my mistake, Alison and MH. I changed my rating back to reality 2/12/2016: 5.9+.
    By pete cogan
    Sep 6, 2004

    A couple of #3.5 Camalots could also help you here, along with the three larger hexes.

    You can also rap the route with 2 ropes.

    Terrific pitch.
    By A. Wolaver
    From: Golden, CO
    Jan 20, 2009

    A terrific route! You can rap off this route with the stretch and love of a 70 m rope.
    By mountainhick
    From: Black Hawk, CO
    Nov 6, 2009

    Climbed this right after Center Route. I don't get this one's 5.8- 5.9 rating. It was more strenuous, awkward and sustained than Center Route. There is a rap anchor at the top. 60m won't make it, We used 2 ropes. The anchor placement is pretty bad for pulling the ropes. We had to get far away from the cliff face to be able to pull them.
    By Alison Conrad
    Nov 6, 2009

    P1 felt harder than 5.9. I found it pumpy and awkward down low. Nothing bigger than a 3.5 cam.
    By Gregger Man
    Aug 7, 2011

    Cut the tat at the top and added a fresh cordelette and forged ring at the chockstone. 70m gets you down (just barely).

    The Definitive
    Climbing Resource

    Inspiration & Motivation
    to Fuel Your Run

    Next Generation Mountain
    Bike Trail Maps

    Backcountry, Sidecountry
    & Secret Stashes

    Better Data. Better Tools.
    Better Hikes!