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Cynical Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buffaloes in Space T 
Center Route T 
Center Route P3 Variation T 
Class Act S 
CMC Route T 
Full Facial (aka Only the Lonely) S 
Hand Job (aka West Face) T 
Hand Job Direct T 
Monkey in the Forest T 
Off-width Route TR 
Rap Crack T 
Rising Crescendo T 
Rubber Ducky T 
Turf Spreader T 
Twist O' Flex T 
Wunsch's Dihedral T 

Hand Job (aka West Face) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Trout and Baker?
Page Views: 7,330
Submitted By: slim on Jan 10, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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West Face of Cynical Pinnacle with Hand Job on the...

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  • Description 

    An excellent route put up in the early '70's by two Platte warriors.

    Hand job climbs the prominent crack system up the center of the west face of Cynical Pinnacle. It is steep, sustained, and high quality. An excellent benchmark for 5.9 climbing in the Platte.

    Approach via "Hand Job Direct (5.9)", with directions for that route being given on this site. From the top of this pitch scramble up and slightly left until you are on a ledge of sorts, directly below the obvious wide crack system.

    p1 (5.9R or approximately 11a, 150 feet?) The 9R standard pitch climbs up to a right leaning traversing hand rail with not much for gear. My partner chose to climb the thin crack to the right. The books list this as A1, but it was approximately 11a. Possibly harder for big fingers. possibly harder for cold fingers too. After about 30 feet, the crack widens into a series of big flakes and hand to fist cracks. We set the belay approximately 40 feet below the obvious OW crack through the roof. Excellent pitch, steep and sustained.

    p2 (5.9, 190 feet) Straight up to the OW crack through the roof/overlap. Not as bad as it looks. Protects w/ #6 friend, technique can prevent thrashing (as always). straight up the widening crack (big bros or run it out) until you can slip inside it as a chimney. Continue on excellent chimneying into a huge cavern. go to the back of the cavern and chimney and stem up through a constriction. Continue to the top of the column and construct a belay below the bolt ladder of the final pitch of [Wunch's]. This is an outstanding pitch. Physical and really neat with the pseudo-spelunking.

    p3 (5.hard or pull on gear) French the bolt ladder to easier slab climbing that tops out on the summit of Cynical Pinnacle. I probably should have included this in the route grading, but with the Frenching, it kind of doesn't really seem to matter.

    Great route. If you like climbing in the Platte you owe it to yourself to do this route.

    Protection 

    Full Platte rack, tips to OW, possibly a #3 (green) bro or two, runners.

    First pitch is 9r or approximately 11a. Your choice.


    Comments on Hand Job (aka West Face) Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Brian Milhaupt
    From: Golden, CO
    Nov 1, 2007
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I feel certain this route is a 5.10 even for South Platte standards. The final steep handcrack warrants it. The initial 5.11 finger crack is also pretty stiff. Campusing on thin fingers while fidgeting with small Aliens to RPs? I think the aid crack is the longer, small crack further right and starting lower. Anyone know what the newer bolted line to the right is? Also, 2 #3 Big Bros would be a good idea. We descended off the backside of the tower. The anchor at the top needs new webbing. Stop your rappel about 2/3 of the way down and scramble to the saddle. Downclimb on the C.P. side through some easy 5th class chimney and find one double rope rappel to the ground. A little hairier than doing the rappels down the south face, but a major time saver.
    By Sergio P
    From: Idaho Springs, CO
    Nov 11, 2007
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    You can rap with one 60m rope from the top of the 1st pitch. Or if you want to use that anchor to belay for the 2nd OW pitch, clip the anchor then go back down 5' to a small ledge where there is a fixed nut. A more comfortable belay.
    By Jonathan Stickel
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 12, 2015
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I've wanted to do this route for awhile but was wary of its 'R' and offwidth nature. I finally got on it yesterday. It is definitely a step up from Center Route both in terms of difficulty and protection, so be prepared. Nonetheless, it is doable for 5.10 leaders with some offwidth and chimney experience. Some notes that might be helpful:
    - The 5.9 start to pitch 1 is not so bad, maybe PG-13 (not R). A couple 0.3-0.5 Camalots are sufficient for protecting the hand traverse. I put a cam near the top of the ascending flake, got one in the start of the traverse, and then back-cleaned the first placement to manage rope drag. A second piece in the traverse soon followed. It is pumpy to place gear, though, as the feet are terrible.
    - Pitch 2 is the real deal. It warrants an R rating unless you have multiple Big-bros. I placed a green Big-bro at the bottom of the offwidth and a tipped-out #6 in a constriction shortly after. Then it was a 25+ ft runout. Leave the #5 at home -- it doesn't fit anywhere. When the offwidth moves seem impossible, look for holds outside, mostly on the left, to make further progress. I must have switched my side-in about half a dozen times.

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