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rock canyon 10a
A fun climb up sharp and sometimes broken quartzite. The holds are mostly positive edges (including jugs) with a few sidepulls and pinches thrown in for fun. The footwork is fun in a few spots.
Most of the route is a bit less than vertical but it steepens just before the chains. There is a good rest just before the steeper part.
The crux is in the last fifteen or twenty feet before the chains: a small roof and a bit of overhang.
The trail to Superbowl Bad Bananas deposits you essentially right at the base of Hamster Forever. There is a bush just to the left of the start. The first bolt of the route is low and can be reached from the ground.
10 bolts to chains (now 11 after someone retro-bolted it). The harder moves are all well-protected.
BETA PHOTO: 1 Hamster Forever 5.10a
Above the third bolt on Hamster Forever.
|Comments on Hamster Forever
|By Perin Blanchard|
From: Orem, UT
Jan 15, 2009
Someone has added a new bolt between the third and (former) fourth bolt. Judging from the rock dust (and the plethora of fresh tick marks), it may have even been done today. It's not a bad place for a bolt, but it certainly wasn't there the last time I got on this.
|By Rob Job|
From: Provo, UT
May 11, 2012
The jugs are there. You just gotta find them. In the occasional event you come across a move or two that make it a 10a and not a 9 just move past it quickly and you'll find a jug. Fun route.
|By Mark Lewis|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 12, 2013
Fun route. It feels really long, especially when in context of the shorter routes in the area. Hence, it was named Hamster Forever I suppose; conjures an appropriate mental image of a hamster forever running around it's wheel. Very pumpy, and the holds can be pretty hidden. I passed up some great holds using mediocre ones without even realizing it - there are many options to choose from.