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Hampster Monkey 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: M. Rolfofson, K. Trout, 2003
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 19, 2012
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Description 

This is a short but good quality route that lies just to the right of an obvious chimney and the route Moonshine.

The start had good hand holds but slippery feet. The crux seemed to be getting your feet high and lockoff for the 2nd hold. Mark Rolofson feels the crux is at the 3rd bolt. Move upward on some good jugs. You can stay slightly left of the bolts and find small but good edges...or...you can traverse right at the 3rd bolt and go for a slap for a sloper (harder, probably 11+ per Mark Rolofson). Either way, continue up easier moves to the 2 bolt anchor.


Location 

This is currently the 3rd bolted line from the left and is just right of an obvious chimney.


Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Hampster Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
1. Hamster Monkey,  5.11d/12a. <br />2. Hamster Kung Fu, 5.12b/c.
1. Hamster Monkey, 5.11d/12a.
2. Hamster Kung Fu,...
Comments on Hampster Monkey Add Comment
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By Mark Rolofson
Sep 27, 2012

The crux is at the 3rd bolt! Not the 2nd bolt! If you find the crux at the 3rd bolt any easier than 5.11d, you must be over left on "Moonshine". I have done this crux many times & two different ways. A big lunge to a dish or a heel hook on the jug using small sidepull holds to reach the dish. It is not just 5.11. I have been here with many 5.12 climbers, & no one has an easy time if they can do the move.

By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Sep 8, 2013

This is really good route. 3 distinct cruxes. Long moves on cool holds. I'd say 12-. I'd say harder than Golden Gate.