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Midnight Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Midnight S 
Caboose, The S 
Cage, The T 
Caged Bird of Pray T 
Cirque du Soleil S 
Crack a Smile S 
Deus Ex Machina S 
Dyno Mart S 
Engine, The T,S 
Flake Out S 
Geminae Cracks S 
Grande Finale S 
Hack a Drone S 
Hammer Down S 
Jet Stream T 
Karma Chameleon S 
Meltdown S 
Midnight Cowboy S 
Midnight Express S 
Pirate Radar S 
Rycessica T 
Stroke of Midnight, The S 
Union with Earth S 
Voila S 
Weather Report S 

Hammer Down 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Horan & Lee 1998
Page Views: 718
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side. A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....


With a lot of variety and challenge in a short distance, HD is for my money one of the best single pitch climbs in Dream Canyon, up there w/ Saragasso Sea and Mantra. (That opinion is in spite of the fact that the sandbag last move completely stymied me.)

Start on the left side of Midnight Rock at a slabby right facing corner with the first bolt a few moves up. (Ron Olsen's route locator photo does a good job of pinpointing the climb.)

Highlights: a 10d layback past a roof, tenuous 5.11 slabbing followed by 5.11 bafflement up a seam, the final crux roof which is either quite height-dependent or very out of character w/ most DC ratings.


Like most climbs on Midnight Rock, this one gets a lot of sun and should be enjoyable during the cooler months.


9 bolts plus anchors.

Photos of Hammer Down Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jorge on Hammerdown, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Jorge on Hammerdown, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Madara putting the Hammer Down.
Doug Madara putting the Hammer Down.

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By Bruce Pech
Sep 26, 2006
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

What David said. The final roof felt considerably harder than most Dream Canyon-Boulder Canyon .11cs. Stem and finger jam as high as possible, then make several improbable, right-facing layback moves to the tiny stance at the anchors. (This sequence worked for me after I was shut down on my first three tries. YMMV.)

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