This route climbs a bolted pillar, 80' right of Better with Bacon. Climb up dikes with the occasional friction move past bolts to a two bolt anchor.
This is a newer route and has not seen a lot of traffic, and is somewhat grungy. The quality might get a little better as it cleans up.
(There is a second pitch that has some bolts and gear placements. This pitch does not get done often, and I don't know the anchor situation. if you do, please comment.)
80' right of Better with bacon is a bolted pillar
1st pitch, fully bolted w/ two bolt anchor w/chains. full 30m so watch the ends of your rope when lowering or rapping. Possibly a good early lead for a 5.6 leader, but there is one section where the bolts are 15' apart, but it is on easy climbing.
|By Justin Johnsen|
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
7 bolts total. The first bolt is highball but easy to climb to, in addition to the 15' space the original author mentions.
|By Tim Camuti|
From: Placerville, CA
Aug 19, 2012
Easily identified by the mini-roof just past the first bolt, no other climbs around have a 2 foot overhang to climb over. Great fun route for 5.6 leaders!
Sep 4, 2012
Hey boys, check out the beta pic with Chorizo Corner. I think maybe we are calling a route Ham and Cheese that is actually right of Ham and Cheese. I climbed all the bolted routes from Better with Bacon to the pillar(ham and cheese) shown in the picture this weekend. There were 3, all similar and about 5.5 5.6. The furthest right line seemed more like the description of Ham and Cheese above. Anyone have some insight?
Sep 4, 2012
Only thing that doesn't match up is the distance right of BwB.
From: Reno, NV
Oct 29, 2012
Caughtinside P1 description is right on (FWIW, the hand drawn topo for Chorizo Corner notes the distance from BwB as 200ft). P2 goes straight up the face for about 30m to a 2 bolt anchor with chains - 3 pitons, 1 bolt, a few opportunities for smaller gear (< BD .5). P3 move left and up onto the face of a right facing dihedral - follow bolt line over small roof - continue following bolts and pitons (didn't notice any gear opportunities) to a 3rd of chains, about 35m. Seems possible to rap the route with 70m rope, but we walked off. Super fun!!
|By JC w KC redux|
Jul 1, 2013
Malieka's description was a big help. I think I only found 6 bolts on p1 - might have missed one but don't see how as all are new and shiny. p2 starts with a piton that was surprising since the crack takes good gear - I backed up the piton just because I could. I found another painted white piton higher up right when I was thinking it would be nice to get some gear in. I didn't see a 3rd piton on p2 and don't remember how many bolts I clipped. I did use a #1 camalot somewhere along the way in a horizontal. p3 is definitely the most fun. Watch out for a new route/project that goes up and right from the p2 anchor - three bolts with a leaver biner on the last one. I missed a piton on p3 out near the far right edge between the last two bolts. That was the only section that felt a little runout to me. I think there were 5 bolts on p3. My follower spotted the "missed" piton on her way up. We didn't see any other pitons. Good slabby moves. Grade seems right on.
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Oct 21, 2013
Really enjoyed this climb. The climb starts right where the approach trail levels off after a steep section.
There is NO ROOF after the 1st bolt, that is triplet I believe.
This is what I remember of the climb, so not exact:
P1 6 bolts, climbs fun dikes to a 2 bolt anchor with chains
P2 3ish pitons (one I almost didn't see) and at least one bolt, 2 bolt anchor with chains above the bush
P3 Look up and left to spot the first bolt, This pitch climbs to the left of the arete/dihedral. It goes over the roof with at least 5 bolts, never saw the piton.
There is a variation to the 3rd pitch, which goes up and right from the anchor, rated about 5.8. Takes 9 draws on a mixture of pitons a bolts, Hard to see some of the pitons, but after you step over the roof the route goes up and right. I belayed off the tree at the top, then rapped from the top of the normal route.
Rappelled the whole route with a 70M rope, 60M would be too short.