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Moose's Tooth
Select Route:
Ham & Eggs 
Shaken not Stirred 
Unforgiven, The 

Ham & Eggs 

WI4 M4

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 10 pitches, 3000', Grade V
Original: WI4 M4 Steep Snow [details]
FA: Jon Krakuauer / Nate Zissner
Season: Spring
Page Views: 16,380
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on May 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Ham and Eggs,

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

One of the best, some parties can do it in 4 hours some take two days. Short crux to enter the weakness propper and then steep snow and the intermittent ice pitch till mid height. Then three to four great solid ice pitches to access the upper bowles. Rappels were set for for 100' raps when we did her. But doubles should be mandatory to get down in any kind of decent time.

Location 

Access by flying into the Route Canal Glaicer. Or go old school from the Mountain House and Hump ur ass off.

Protection 

5-6 screws / light rack maybe five cams / nuts / hexes / pitons / extra material for decent slings


Photos of Ham & Eggs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Our badass B.C.
Our badass B.C.
Rock Climbing Photo: Massive icefall coming off Dickey and rocking the ...
Massive icefall coming off Dickey and rocking the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on the summit.
Me on the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great shot of the lower sections of the route
BETA PHOTO: Great shot of the lower sections of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Mooses Tooth with Ham & Eggs the obvious line in t...
BETA PHOTO: Mooses Tooth with Ham & Eggs the obvious line in t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Crux pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ham and Eggs from BC
Ham and Eggs from BC
Rock Climbing Photo: Red - up; blue - down; green - reliable gear.
BETA PHOTO: Red - up; blue - down; green - reliable gear.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower rock section getting into to the couloir Apr...
Lower rock section getting into to the couloir Apr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ruth Gorge from Ham & Eggs
Ruth Gorge from Ham & Eggs

Comments on Ham & Eggs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Artem Lebedev
From: Santa Monica, CA
May 3, 2009
rating: WI4+ M3 Steep Snow

CONDITION REPORT 
This April climb received a lot of snow, and most of the vertical ice sections are actually overhanging snow. I suspect that's typical early season conditions.
In the way of pro, I'd take 4 snow pickets for the summit ridge and no pitons.
By Owen Silitch
From: New York, NY
May 11, 2016

Just got back from a trip to the Root Canal in early May and climbed this route. Conditions I think were pretty good. Lots of steep snow climbing and a probably around 7 pure vertical ice sections. Such an incredible climb tho and definitely will be coming back to try Shaken. As far as the Pro goes I think the guide book is pretty spot on and would probably just only bring a few extra pickets

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