Hallett Peak - mixed/ice Rock Climbing
Hallett Peak. Photo by Ben Williams.
This is an organizational entry for the Tyndall Gorge to assist with clarity in the database.
Hallett Peak is probably better known as a moderate, close-in, backcountry, alpine crag. Once, it had the aura of a difficult Norwand. During the colder months (most of the year), certain freeze-thaw cycles can align to create a variety of interesting mixed lines here. Probably the most famous is Hallett Chimney. This was listed in G. Randall's 1983 Vertigo Games with a wonderful shot of Dick Jackson on the FA of the route. Since, it has become an almost Grail-like goal for the mixed-Colorado-aficienado. Subsequently, others have quietly sought devious, mixed adventures on this playground.
Within the database:
Below: East Ridge
, mod snow
A. The Cleft
, 5.8 M4, 5p, 600'.
, WI3+ M6+, 1p, 130'.
C. Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress
, M4-5, 5p, 1000'.
D. Hallett Chimney
, M5+, 4-6p, 900'.
E. Englishman's Route
, M5-6, 6p, 900'.
F. The Slit
, M5-6, 5p, 900'.
G. Tyndall Gully
, moderate snow, 800'.
Within this subarea, you will only find the ice/mixed/snow routes.
Once on the eastern side of RMNP, drive to the end of the Bear Lake Rd. Occasionally, this road will be closed due to snow clearing efforts. Hike 1.8 miles to Emerald Lake. Skirt the lake on the S/left side towards the obvious large rock buttress (900' tall). Note, there is a buried talus field here under all the snow. Hike up to the base. Expect at least a 75 minute approach. You'll gain probably 1500'.
For a quick link to the rock routes on Hallett
Climbing Season For the Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge area.
Weather station 8.9 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hallett Peak - mixed/ice:
M5-6 Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 5 pitches, 900'
WI3+ M6+ Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 130'
Featured Route For Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5
: CO Ice & Mixed
: ... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
This route climbs the chimney between the First and Second Buttresses on the north side of Hallett Peak. The bottom part of the route is relatively easy and can be covered quickly by simulclimbing. However once you get to the middle this is where the fun starts. From here on up to the top their are several steep sections requiring snow, ice, and mixed climbing techniques. In general, the crux moves involved climbing past the large chockstones wedged between the chimney walls. There are a couple ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
By j wharton
Nov 27, 2012
Here's a video with footage from Bullet (left version) and the last pitch of Englishman's on a nice day. Enjoy!