|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Alpine, Grade IV|
|FA:||Glendenning party, 1951 / Mixed: Brad Johnson & Dick Jackson, 1975|
|Season:||Early Spring / Late Fall|
|Submitted By:||Aubrey K. Additon on Jun 5, 2006|
|Comments on Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Pinewood Springs
Jul 3, 2006
Mike Ivie and I tried this route only to be turned back due conditions or time or personal freezing due to being wet at least 4 times. But the luck finally turned my way on the 13MAY06 when Ralph Burns and I got the route in really good conditions on my 7th try. Ralph lead the crux chock stone pitch and the second pitch rock wall. And the that left me the AI pitches and the pitch following the chock stone, which I call the CUBE pitch since its a cornice in the shape of a cube with ice on the right wall. The AI climbing is totally great once you get used to it. TAKE a dead man, you will be happy you brought it.
By Jim Amidon
Jun 15, 2008
I climbed this my second attempt yesterday with, Mike Carr, his 3rd try. It was one of the most amazing alpine experiences for both of us. He's been climbing in the park for 30 years, me for 15.
I've looked at that route for countless years, tried to get people to climb it but never was able to get the partner and the fickleness of the route in sync.
As any alpine route is concerned weather and snowfall will dictate how a route shapes up. We had an incredible combination of great snow and wild ice, with wild mixed climbing. We both pulled a lot of tricks out of our bags to get the leads done.
Each time you'd thought you had climbed the crux there was another deceptive hurdle to cross.
90 degrees in the city, but not up there....get it while it lasts.
You will not soon forget that climb or that day.
By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
May 2, 2012
|Possibly my favorite mixed route in RMNP - likely because we had excellent conditions. Styrofoam snice between cruxes, with enough ice in the steep bits to make it a true rock/ice mixture.|
From: Vail, CO
May 6, 2012
|Fun route. The final snow mushroom that has seemed to stop a couple of parties this year can be surmounted by going right with alright gear. I thought this was harder then what is called the crux. It's all cruiser from there!|
From: Boulder, CO
May 7, 2012
|Climbed this yesterday. The infamous snow mushroom forced us around to the right into some tough terrain. Topped out before two which made us think that this isn't quite a grade IV route.|