Halfway to Paradise 5.10a PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Herb Laeger, Mike Waugh, Jan McCollum & Dennis Knuckles, February 1978 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: "Halfway to Paradise". Photo by Blitzo.
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Description Starting 15' down and left from Effigy Too is this engaging mixed route. A single bolt 15' up marks this route, which wanders upward past the bolt and several horizontals to the top. The pro is decent as the crux is just above the bolt and the climbing above although sporty is easier. If not up to leading this route it is easily toproped from the anchor for Effigy Too.
Protection Bolt (3/8") and small to medium cams. Gear belay and walk off climber's left (down a chimney/gully).
| Comments on Halfway to Paradise |
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By Scotty Nelson From: Boulder Apr 19, 2004 rating: 5.10c
| Pretty tough for 10a? Anyone else done this? |
By Murf Apr 19, 2004 rating: 5.10a
| Unfortunately you don't get to increase the difficulty rating for "mental difficulty". |
By Randy Apr 19, 2004 rating: 5.10a
| The route is a bit stiff for 10a (I gave it a split 10a/b) rating in the new guide, but hardly any harder. As a lead it gets an R rating, but as Murf pointed out, that doesn't change the difficulty of the moves. |
By Will S From: Joshua Tree Nov 30, 2008 rating: 5.10a PG13
| Reachy. If you're tall enough, it's a wandering jug fest on horizontals, if you can't reach between them it may feel harder than rated. |
By Fat Dad From: Los Angeles, CA Feb 5, 2009
| I've done this a few times over the years and it's always felt hard for a .10a, even on TR. |
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