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 ADVANCED
Echo Cove - East Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ashtray, The T 
Crossroads T 
Effigy Too T 
Familial Feud TR 
Halfway to Paradise T 
Hatfield Arete T 
Hatfields and McCoys T 
Inhaler S 
Jughead T 
Mis-Matched TR 
Misfits T 
Nitwit T 
No Mistake or Big Pancake T 
Real McCoy, The TR 
Snatch, The T 
Solo Dog T 
Teething Toy T 
unknown T 
Unknown 1 T 
Wit T 

Halfway to Paradise 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Herb Laeger, Mike Waugh, Jan McCollum & Dennis Knuckles, February 1978
Page Views: 715
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Me leading the monster... has to be like 1979 or 8...

Description 

Starting 15' down and left from Effigy Too is this engaging mixed route.

A single bolt 15' up marks this route, which wanders upward past the bolt and several horizontals to the top. The pro is decent as the crux is just above the bolt and the climbing above although sporty is easier.

If not up to leading this route it is easily toproped from the anchor for Effigy Too.


Protection 

Bolt (3/8") and small to medium cams. Gear belay and walk off climber's left (down a chimney/gully).



Photos of Halfway to Paradise Slideshow Add Photo
"Halfway to Paradise". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Halfway to Paradise".
Photo by Blitzo.
Dave Wonderly cruising the runout.  Maybe 1980
Dave Wonderly cruising the runout. Maybe 1980
Comments on Halfway to Paradise Add Comment
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By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Apr 19, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Pretty tough for 10a? Anyone else done this?

By Murf
Apr 19, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Unfortunately you don't get to increase the difficulty rating for "mental difficulty".

By Randy
Apr 19, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The route is a bit stiff for 10a (I gave it a split 10a/b) rating in the new guide, but hardly any harder. As a lead it gets an R rating, but as Murf pointed out, that doesn't change the difficulty of the moves.

By Woody Stark
Jun 8, 2004

It seems 5.10B/C to me.

By Kris Spevak
Nov 19, 2007

I agree - 10B.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 30, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Reachy. If you're tall enough, it's a wandering jug fest on horizontals, if you can't reach between them it may feel harder than rated.

By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Feb 5, 2009

I've done this a few times over the years and it's always felt hard for a .10a, even on TR.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 26, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

From the description: If not up to leading this route it is easily toproped from the anchor for Effigy Too.

Effigy Too is way over to the right, and a separate anchor for HP must be set. It would be suicide to use the Effigy Too anchor location to toprope this route.

As for an anchor, use some nuts and a small cam or two under the big summit plate. A long extendo runner is also needed. If you have a huge extendo, you can tie off the entire summit cap for an anchor.