On intersection Rock, there are three main cracks running diagonally up and left from the base. These are visible from the North side (from the Hidden Valley Campground) and are called, from right to left, Right Ski Track, Left Ski Track, and Half Track. These are plainly visible in the attached photograph.
Half Track is the shortest and easiest of the three climbs, but is by no means a route to test your limits on. As one of my first routes at J-Tree, I found it to be a little frightening just off of the ground, as I was not used to the friction there and did not have great faith in the required smears with such small gear (#3 BD Stopper) protecting me from a 10' ground fall.
I committed to the crux smears shortly after looking at my belayer and saying "I don't think that these will stick, but if they won't, then this is a lot harder than 10a, so I guess they must." They did and I didn't test the pro.
Approach from the campground or wherever you parkedand walk up to the base of the climb. Move up a bit, place a few small nuts and continue up and left. The crux for me was the smears on feet just 10-15 feet up the route, which gets easier andf better protected as you progress. The route will deposit you on the shoulder of the rock, 1/2 way up after about 70' of climbing. From there you may continue upward on one of a few cracks, or rap down to the base from a fixed anchor.
A standard J-tree rack of nuts, from very small to large, plus a set of TCU's to hand-sized cams.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 4, 2003
the rap anchor at the top of the pitch sucks ass, im thinkin of putting in back up bolts because the flake that you currently rap off is cracking not to mention all that damned webbing up there looks more disgusting than two camoflaged bolts would, this is an honest subject and would like some real feed back on what you all think.
|By Bo Johnston|
Feb 6, 2005
If you can get past the first 20 feet the rest of this route is a breeze.
|By Darshan Ahluwalia|
From: Petaluma, CA
Apr 25, 2006
The rap anchor does suck--but I trusted it on Sunday when we climbed it...and I'm still here.
|By John Long|
Jul 19, 2011
When we first did this route free I kept trying to get something (including hand made nuts I hack sawed at my job at a gas station) in the crack and going higher and higher but nothing would fit so it was a 25 foot free solo to the easy stuff- scary stuff for high school in red PAs. Years later this would become part of the mid-70s free solo circuit that included all of the Ski Tracks, Waterchute, Bongledesh, and North Overhang (on this formation).
|By Richard Shore|
Jan 30, 2012
Really enjoyed this route. Protected well with small cams after the no-pro friction start. It seemed much easier to climb edges and friction just left of the pin-scarred seam until the first gear placement 15' up. A crash pad might be handy for the start if you're at your limit. Rapped off the slung block on the ledge 1/2 way up.