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Cactus Cliff
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Half Breed 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,159
Submitted By: Jon Cannon on Sep 26, 2006

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Jean Hilger is a study in determination.

Description 

Stem in the clean dihedral just right of La Temperatura de Shelf. Once past the ledges at the base, sink your grubby little paws into the crack in the corner. Stemming works well here, as the holds on one side or the other are abundant. Once you've gained the decent ledge up high, either stay in the crack and move right to the anchors or angle right straight up to the anchors. The crux is about half-way up, where the abundant holds are suddenly not so abundant, and the rock gets a little more blank. This has very fun moves.

Location 

It is just right of La Temperatura de Shelf.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Half Breed Slideshow Add Photo
Tracy workin' the big dihedral of Half Breed.
Tracy workin' the big dihedral of Half Breed.

Comments on Half Breed Add Comment
Show which comments
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 13, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'm not sure where the 5.10a comes from. This climb involves solid hand and fist jams. It is sustained and sharp, but no harder than 5.8.
By Natilisk
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 24, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Agreed, this was not a 5.10. A great one to lead on gear though! There's actually two cracks to work with in the dihedral.