Half Baked  5.10a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Dave and Mike Hatchett, 1993. Submitted By:  Aron Quiter on Sep 12, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route heads up the center of The Oven, and is hard as hell to figure out which route is it until you've been up another route to get a look at all the bolts on the wall.

The easiest way to find it is to look for the clusterfuck of bolts in the center of the oven, look for the two routes that seem to intertwine (because they do) but share the first four bolts, and then choose the bolt route between the two that heads up the less steep terrain (which is to the right.)

Another good way to get your bearings is to spot the bolted hard looking crack about 45 feet off the ground, which has bolts just to the right of the brack (Carville has them listed to the left of the crack.) This is Climb Against Nature (5.12b). From Climb Against Nature at the level of the crack, count two bolt lines right, and this is Half Baked.

Climbing is simple up the first four bolts, which is where Under Cooked (5.11b) splits off to the route to the left, and gets really overhung. Stay on more juggy terrian by heading straight up, and a small roof move greets you a few bolts later. After the brux climbing gets pretty easy real fast and traverses hard left to the top anchor of the climb. Using the bolt that's just right of the top anchor and continuing up a few more bolts through a blank looking bulge section is Super Baked (5.11c).

Protection 

10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This route shares a top anchor and the first four bolts with Under Cooked (5.11b), and is part of the route Super Baked (5.11c), which continues up past the lower anchors to a higher set of anchors. What a mess!