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Buzzard Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 
Ass Cannibal S 
Bulge, The S 
Buzzard Guts T 
Failure to Communicate S 
Half and Half S 
Kimberly T,S 
Melungian Brotherhood S 
Obscure Adventure T,TR 
Prajapati S 
Pulp Friction S 
Raising Arizona S 
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 
Three Amigos T 
Three Amigos Direct T 
Three Amigos Double Direct T 
Unknown 1 T 

Half and Half 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: Adam Marcus on Apr 6, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: View from base of Half and Half. Start is just to ...

Description 

The bottom is easy slabby, but some people may get a little freaked by the distance between bolts. The top is easy, whith the crux move getting over a small roof near the top. There are left and right variations at the crux that finish at different spots (and probably require a bit of trad gear for the rest of the route). You can easily split the route into two pitches with a decent ledge and tree about 50 feet from the bottom. Makes for a good intro to real multi-pitch climbing. Good stances for clipping all the bolts.

Location 

The route tops out on the ridge trail, from which you can hike back down or rappel. A 60-meter rope is too short to rappel from the bolts but a 70-meter rope will work (it'll be close, though, so be sure to knot the ends). You could also do a 2-pitch rappel using the ledge and tree that's about 50 feet above the base.

Protection 

You can climb it using just the 7 khaki-colored bolts, or you can protect the crux move with a ".5-"2 cam (I used a yellow #2 BD Camalot C4). The rest of the route is either well-bolted or easy slabs with nowhere to put trad pro even if you had it. Clip the first bolt from the ground before you start climbing.


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