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 ADVANCED
Buzzard Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 
Ass Cannibal S 
Bulge, The S 
Buzzard Guts T 
Failure to Communicate S 
Half and Half S 
Kimberly T,S 
Melungian Brotherhood S 
Obscure Adventure T,TR 
Prajapati S 
Pulp Friction S 
Raising Arizona S 
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 
Three Amigos T 
Three Amigos Direct T 
Three Amigos Double Direct T 
Unknown 1 T 

Half and Half 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 456
Submitted By: Adam Marcus on Apr 6, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: View from base of Half and Half. Start is just to ...

Description 

The bottom is easy slabby, but some people may get a little freaked by the distance between bolts. The top is easy, whith the crux move getting over a small roof near the top. There are left and right variations at the crux that finish at different spots (and probably require a bit of trad gear for the rest of the route). You can easily split the route into two pitches with a decent ledge and tree about 50 feet from the bottom. Makes for a good intro to real multi-pitch climbing. Good stances for clipping all the bolts.

Location 

The route tops out on the ridge trail, from which you can hike back down or rappel. A 60-meter rope is too short to rappel from the bolts but a 70-meter rope will work (it'll be close, though, so be sure to knot the ends). You could also do a 2-pitch rappel using the ledge and tree that's about 50 feet above the base.

Protection 

You can climb it using just the 7 khaki-colored bolts, or you can protect the crux move with a ".5-"2 cam (I used a yellow #2 BD Camalot C4). The rest of the route is either well-bolted or easy slabs with nowhere to put trad pro even if you had it. Clip the first bolt from the ground before you start climbing.


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By Jonathan Trowbridge
From: Richmond, Virginia
Sep 30, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This route is perfect for someone's first mixed route! I noticed the first bolt of the anchor is a little rusted (9/28/14). If you're going to do it in one pitch you MUST have a 70m rope. Tie a naught on the be-layer's end, as the rope ran out as soon as I touched the ground.

To get to the route head past Ass Cannibal away from Pulp Friction and just keep left and work your way up not down. You'll know you found it when you come across a route that has a really low first bolt, starts on a ledge, and there's a slightly larger ledge further up with some trees before it.